Homeowners’ Maintenance Manual


If you have this Homeowners Maintenance Booklet, it means that you and your family have achieved one of the main projects in life: owning your own home.

This booklet is an instrument to help every homeowner develop a habit of proper home maintenance. Every home owner already understood that when a home is acquired, a material good has been acquired that must receive preventive maintenance to avoid deterioration.

Your home is one of your most essential financial investments, and proper maintenance will help protect this valuable asset. Since you are the homeowner, you are responsible for taking proper care of your home.

You can maintain your home regularly by taking these two important steps:

  • Routine inspection
  • Preventive maintenance

If you follow the instructions in this booklet carefully, your home will bring you years of joy and comfort.

The booklet explains the homeowner’s maintenance responsibilities in a simple, and easy-to-understand language.

If you think that certain maintenance or repairs are beyond your specific capabilities, we strongly recommend that you call a professional, licensed contractor to perform the required work.


The recommendations in this booklet are not intended to replace a manufacturer’s recommendations or instructions. If you discover a disparity between our recommendations and the manufacturer’s recommendations, the manufacturer’s instructions and guidelines always surpass our recommendations.

Please note: This maintenance manual is intended for different types of buildings across the country. As a result, some of the preventive ideas described in this service booklet may not be suitable for your home.

Welcome To Your New Home!

In order to acquaint you with the maintenance requirements and warranty information about your new home, we are providing you with this Homeowner’s Maintenance Booklet which consists of six chapters:

  1. Homeowner’s Maintenance and Routine Inspection Checklists
  2. General Information & Safety Tips
  3. Home hack tips you may not know
  4. Homeowner’s Maintenance Information
  5. Homeowners’ quick fixes
  6. Glossary of Construction Terms

This booklet will provide useful information which will assist you in the maintenance and service requirements of your new home.

Chapter 1

Just as regularly changing the oil in a car can keep the engine happy and healthy, maintaining your home regularly will save you future headaches and thousands of dollars.

Viewing these tedious chores can be daunting, especially if you are a new homeowner. This is a long list – it cannot be denied. The good news is that you can perform most maintenance yourself without much experience. Google is your best friend. If you run into any difficulty please contact a professional to help you.

To maximize efficiency and actually get all of these tasks done, you may want to create a family maintenance calendar for yourself. Online or on paper, you can write down a few small routine tasks every weekend without getting too busy. We have listed tasks that are performed monthly, quarterly, and semi-annually. We also provide you with a list of tasks that should be done seasonally. Not every expert agrees which tasks need to be done in which season, so it is not necessarily a black and white list. Do things that are effective for you and your schedule. As long as all of these things are done, your home will be in good condition for years to come.

Air conditioning and heating

  • Check air filters and clean or replace as necessary
  • Vacuum air supply and air return registers to remove dust and lint.

Fire Extinguisher

  • Make sure the fire extinguisher is easily accessible (not blocked by trash cans or other objects)
  • Ensure the pressure gauge shows adequate pressure
  • Ensure there are no obvious signs of wear and tear

Interior Caulking

Check for cracks or separations in caulking around sinks, bathtubs, toilets, faucets, counter tops, back splashes, ceramic tile walls, ceramic floors, window sills and any other areas

Range Hood Fan

Clean the range hood filter

Every Quarter Checklist

  • Test smoke / carbon dioxide alarms, your detector should have a “test” button.
  • Test the garage door’s automatic reverse function.
  • Flush the toilet with water in unused areas. This mainly applies to guest bathrooms or other sinks / water sources that you use infrequently. The idea is to prevent dirt or other buildup. Running a little water regularly can prevent this.
  • Check the water softener and add salt if necessary.
  • Test the pressure release valve of the water heater
  • Thoroughly clean the house. Spend a Saturday with the family every six months cleaning the entire house thoroughly.
  • Clean the refrigerator coil with a vacuum cleaner

Spring is an important month for family support. Pay special attention to the exterior of the house as the house has just weathered the winter and is preparing for the high summer temperatures.

  • Check the external drainage device. The puddle should not be in your home for more than 24 hours. If the water doesn’t spread or flow to your foundation. Check the drain. It could be a bad nozzle or a loose connection. They may just need cleaning.
  • Clean drains. You may have accumulated leaves from autumn and dirt/sediment from snow and/or rain in winter.
  • Check the appearance of the house. Is there any color peeling? Is there any damage to the siding in winter? Are there holes in the bricks? Check the entire house carefully and make repairs if necessary. Also, check the foundation for cracks.
  • Prepare and repair the air conditioner for summer.
  • Repair / replace damaged window pane.
  • Remove dead plants/shrubs from the house. This can serve as a gardening technique, but if trees or shrubs aren’t pruned in the fall, do it now.
  • Check if trees are interfering with power lines. If necessary, perform a professional trim.
  • Check the roof for damage, leaks, etc. You may need professionals.

Summer is a great time to focus on the exterior of the house, lawns, and gardens.

  • Check cement paste in bathrooms, kitchens, etc; repair them as needed. This will extend the life of the tile surface and make it look better.
  • Check the pipeline for leaks and clean the aerator on the tap. Go around all of the faucets and toilets and check for any small leaks.
  • Watch out for any insect problems. Summer is their playground. You may not need to pay too much attention to insect problems. Ants, spiders, moths, etc. are common and easy to care for. Keep cobwebs clean, carry ant poison, make sure all doors are tightly closed, etc.
  • Clean and repair the deck/patio as needed. The deck may also need to be repainted. At the same time, check for a loose board or terminal and repair if necessary.
  • Remove dirt from the windows. If you have a basement, you have windows too. From leaves to trash to animals, everything will fall there.
  • Check and clean the dryer vents and other exhaust vents outside the house. With the dryer running, check for exhaust gas leaks. It should smell fresh. If there is not much exhaust, please check if there is a possibility that it is clogged. You may need professionals. Also vacuum the lint from the dryer hose.
  • Clean the garage. Cleaning the garage should be everyone’s summer etiquette. Keeping it clean and tidy will help it last longer.

Autumn is a season between two seasons. This is the time of the year to do the maintenance for the summer house and prepare for winter. Cold, snow and rain have a huge impact on the house, so you don’t want to neglect your winter preparations.

  • Rinse the water heater and remove any debris. This can extend the life of the heater and help improve its efficiency.
  • Antifreeze for air conditioning. Remove and store the window assembly. If you have central air, cover the external device with a tarpaulin or plastic wrap and secure it with a rubber band.
  • Prepare the heating system for the winter. Check windows or doors for leaks. These cost an arm and a leg. Make sure the heater opening is open and not blocked by furniture. Repair / inspect the oven at least every two years (preferably once a year). As with AC, this is not a huge expense. If there is a fireplace, don’t forget the fireplace.
  • Switch off the outside tap and rinse it out. Also, rinse and store the hose. If there is, prevent the spray system as well.
  • Clean the chimney (if present). Some people say it happens in spring, others say it is autumn. In any case, make sure it gets completed once a year.
  • Test the sewage pump. You don’t want to wait until you need a sewage pump to find out it’s not working.
  • Check the driveway/sidewalk for cracks. Make sure you reseal before winter. The water freezes and expands in the cracks, causing further damage.
  • Buy winter equipment. In winter, prepare the salt on the sidewalk, a good shovel, etc. You never know when the first snow will come!

In winter, it’s time to walk around the house checking out the little things you may have overlooked. If you have an interior decorating project, be it painting, building shelves, etc., now is a good time to start resolving these issues too.

  • Check ice dams and icicles regularly.
  • Test the current as often as possible. Always be particularly careful when switching on.
  • Tighten all handles, knobs, frames, etc. Check the room and look for any loose screws.
  • Check all locks and fastening screws on doors and windows. If it doesn’t work properly, replace it.
  • Check to see if the shower and tub are sketchy and fix them as needed.
  • Remove the shower head and clean the debris. This can extend the life span and also help increase the water pressure.
  • Thoroughly clean and inspect the basement. As we all know, basements are ignored, especially if they are primarily storage areas. Remove dust, clean all windows, and make sure there is no mold anywhere.

If you want to keep your budget light this summer, this Summer Energy Saving Guide will help you formulate simple, inexpensive, or free energy-saving tactics. 

  • Always use the microwave when cooking. Microwave ovens produce very little heat, so you no longer have to pay for air conditioning. Microwaves also use less energy than other cooking appliances such as ovens and stoves 
  • Replace the air conditioner filter. A dirty air filter restricts air circulation, forcing your air conditioner to work harder and use more energy. This also increases the wear and tear on the fan and requires more frequent maintenance. Replace the filter once a month or as recommended by the manufacturer. 
  • Upgrade the lamp to LED. Compared to conventional light bulbs, LEDs consume much less energy and hardly generate any heat. The upfront cost is higher than incandescent, but you can save on electricity bills. 
  • Watch out for electronic products with the “Always on” setting, like Televisions and video game consoles. These devices can be activated more quickly with these settings. These settings are usually enabled by default. This means that even if they are not in use, they can consume electricity and increase electricity costs. Off the settings. 
  • Invest in a smart thermostat. Smart thermostats can be connected to mobile devices such as smartphones so that the thermostat can be easily adjusted to save energy when the house is empty. You can also reset the temperature before you leave for home to make the room comfortable on arrival. 
  • Seal leaks. You may only notice well-ventilated areas in winter, but those gaps run out conditioned air all summer. Use weather strips, caulking materials, or spray foam insulation to seal any leaks on doors and windows. 
  • Upgrade to energy-saving devices. If you want to replace devices such as refrigerators, washing machines, or dryers, you can save monthly costs by choosing more energy-efficient models. 

Green facts and energy-saving ideas 

Everything from lighting the house to washing clothes affects your electricity bill. With a few adjustments, you can lower energy consumption – good for your wallet and the planet. 


Simply replacing the light bulb can have a positive impact on your electricity bill. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, you can save up to $75 a year using low-energy bulbs in the five most common lamps in your home. 

Some common area you can consider to replace are: 

  • Ceiling light for the kitchen 
  • Living room/family table and floor lamp 
  • Outdoor porch 

Depending on the type you choose, the EPA estimates that energy-saving lamps can last 25 times longer than standard lamps and use 25% to 80% less energy than standard lighting. 

Heating and cooling 

Almost 50% of the energy consumed by households is used for heating and cooling. Regular maintenance of the devices will ensure that they are working at maximum efficiency, and you can save energy as much as possible. 

  • Replace the air filter on the stove or air conditioner. Clogged filters and dirt significantly reduce system efficiency and air quality in the home. Replace the filter monthly or as the manufacturer recommend. 
  • Keep the ventilation slots free. Move curtains, blankets, and furniture away from heat collectors and air vents. The free flow of air in the oven or the air conditioning system offers more convenience and saves money. 
  • When replacing heating and cooling equipment, choose a highly efficient model. If the furnace’s Annual Fuel Efficiency (AFUE) is 90% or more, it can be considered high efficiency. The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Class (SEER) of air conditioners is 13-25. Your HVAC technician can help you select equipment of the right quality and efficiency for your home. 
  • Install a programmable thermostat. Proper use of a programmable thermostat can save about 10% on your electricity bill every year. There are even “smart” models that allow you to control the temperature of your home with your smartphone from almost anywhere. 
  • Seal leaking heating and cooling pipes. Even small leaks can lead to higher utility bills. A properly sealed duct can save you money in heating and cooling bills every year.  

Green guide to replacing appliance 

A green guide to getting rid of old equipment 

When you buy large home appliances, the last thing you think about is how to get rid of them. However, every year people replace the most important electrical appliances in the home, and every year people want to know how to handle old, worn-out electrical appliances. 

One of the best ways to get rid of unwanted equipment is to recycle it.  

This is our green guide to removing old devices. 

Disposal of large household appliances 

When it comes to dishwashers, washing machine, refrigerators, and even ovens, too many people toss them in the dump. Since these devices are not biodegradable, they will rust, and some of them can leak hazardous materials and eventually take up the landfill space. This is the worst choice considering the health of the environment. 

The first thing you should do as recommended by Scientific American is to check with your local waste disposal agency for free collection and a discount. 

In 10 states and Ontario, Canada, some offices have partnered with a company called Responsible Appliance Disposal (RAD) to provide this service. The program was started in October 2006 to protect the ozone layer and reduce greenhouse gases. 

If you don’t have access to any of these programs in your area, you still have two options. If your device is still usable, please consider advertising on Craigslist or similar services to make a small amount of money. If you feel like you don’t have time for it, you can always donate your old gear to places like Goodwill or anywhere where donations is accepted as charity. These organizations will sell items and donate the proceeds to charities. Most people will even come to collect items, and your donation is tax-deductible. If there isn’t a viable charity donated to your neighborhood, many communities offer shuttle services to recycle certain electrical appliances. 

The last option you can choose is to sell or donate scrap equipment for scrap metal. Your stove, refrigerator, freezer, and washing machine contain valuable metals that can be reused by builders and manufacturers. This process is not as environmentally friendly as donating, reselling, or sending equipment to an EPA recycling center. Therefore, let this be your last option. 



Spring Home Maintenance Manual 

Review the three areas that needs maintenance in spring. 

Spring is a critical time to maintain your home. When the winter frost finally melts, you can take your time to conserve energy, avoid problems, and extend the life of some of the most valuable components and systems in your home. 

Air conditioner 

At the start of the season, test your cooling system to make sure it’s working perfectly – even if it’s still a little cold.  

Any good guide to maintaining your home recommends regularly checking the air conditioning hose connection for leaks. If you find water droplets or puddles, you should seek out a professional HVAC technician. 

In general, you should always call an experienced HVAC technician for annual equipment maintenance. Regular maintenance can extend the life of the system and prevent malfunctions. 

Roof and gutter 

Cleaning the drain is an important part of the maintenance during spring. Blockages from accumulated sediment, leaves, branches, and other debris can prevent drainage. This can cause your gutter to overflow in heavy rain, which can damage your roof and cause leaks. 

Carefully inspect the roof when cleaning the drains and look out for any signs of leaks, missing shingles, or other damage signs.  

If your fireplace is working properly, check, clean, and maintain the chimney during spring maintenance. Every time a fireplace is used in winter, a residue known as creosote, which is highly flammable, builds up. 

Exterior walls and windows 

The best time to repeat external sealing on windows and weather protection on doors is during the spring maintenance phase 

As the snow melts and the dead leaves biodegrade, dust, mold, and other stains can build up outside the house. Take some time to vigorously rinse off the sediment to prevent permanent staining and corrosion. 

Summer Home Maintenance 

Tips for maintenance of the summer home 

Summer is the time to enjoy sunny days and warm evenings outside, but you want your home and garden to look beautiful. High temperatures also mean higher electricity bills. That’s why we’ve rounded up some of our favorite summer home maintenance tips so you can get ready for some fun in the sun. 

Tips for saving energy in summer 

  • Set the thermostat as conveniently as possible. The smaller the difference between inside and outside temperature, the less energy is consumed. 
  • Do not turn down the thermostat to cool the house down faster as this increases electricity bills. 
  • Using a ceiling fan can raise the thermostat to 4 degrees while maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature. 
  • Keep the incandescent lamp and television away from the AC thermostat. The heat generated by these devices can mislead the thermostat sensors and force the cooling system to run longer than necessary. 
  • Regularly clean the temperature sensor of dust. Any accumulation results in inefficient operation. 
  • Avoid using ovens in summer, grill outdoors, or use stoves and microwaves instead. 
  • Efficient lighting keeps your home cool. 
  • Make sure the water heater is set to warm (120 degrees) instead of high temperature. This avoids burns and saves electricity bills. 
  • On the hottest day in the sun, close the curtains to block the warm light. 
  • Before the temperature rises, ask a professional to check the air conditioner and replace the filter once a month for maintenance. Frequent use of alternating current can result in the need to change the filter more frequently.  

Summer Home maintenance – Pests 

Guide to combating summer pests 

Bugs and rodents may have a place in the world, but this is certainly not your home. 

When it comes to pest control, many homeowners choose to use pesticides, but the chemicals found in many pesticides can be harmful, especially if sprayed in or around living spaces. Inhaling these chemicals can cause health problems in children and adults. 

Here are some other methods that can help you keep bugs away. 

Eliminate mosquitoes 

Mosquitoes reproduce in stagnant water, and there are usually high concentrations of mosquitoes near any source of water (even small puddles). To prevent mosquitoes from collecting (and sneaking in) your home, remove standing water regularly. Rainwater collects in empty buckets, flowerpots, and other containers. 

Keep ants and cockroaches away. 

Dealing with pests usually means learning how to keep ants and cockroaches away. Staying away from these intruders usually means keeping a clean, dry home. Sweep, vacuum, and disinfect regularly and take special care to clean up any spilled food immediately. Also, make sure leaks in pipes, dishwashers, refrigerators, and other indoor water sources are repaired immediately. 

Since these creatures usually enter from the outside, carefully look for crevices, cracks, and other openings around the house’s baseboards and cabinets. Fill all openings with sealant. 


Keep rodents out 

As with ants and cockroaches, one of the best ways to keep rodents out is to clean up the house and make sure all food containers are locked. Pet food and water leftovers overnight can also attract unwanted guests. 

You can’t see these creatures for yourself, but they leave the evidence in the form of feces. The most effective and pesticide-free way to solve the rodent problem is to use feathers or glue traps. 

How to keep fleas away 

Vacuum the areas frequently cleaned by pets at least once a week and dispose of the vacuum bag immediately to prevent fleas from entering your room. If possible, place washable blankets or towels on the floor of the pet lounge.  

How to keep bugs away 

In addition to the general tips above, we’ve rounded up some more detailed tips for cleaning your home and preventing pests. 

Clean inside and outside 

Organizing clutter can also help prevent insects and rodents from entering your home. These pests don’t like to show up in public. Cluttering is a potential hiding place for insects and rodents. 

This principle also applies to the exterior of the house. Pests come from outside. So if you have a hiding place near your home, it may only be a matter of time before they enter your home. 


Dealing with garbage 

Your garbage can attract harmful organisms. Discarded food attracts insects and rodents into your home. Proper garbage storage can go a long way in preventing pests. To prevent rodents and insects from entering, please put food waste in a covered waste basket. Do not put groceries in open bins inside or outside the home. 

Check if your home has an entry point. 

Check for cracks in the house that could lead to insects. Do the same inspection on the outside of the house. Seal sealed cracks. Pay close attention to where pipes and the like go into the house. 

Check doors and windows. 

Weather protection around doors and windows is important to keep the house insulated. They also help keep insects and ants out. Check your doors and windows to ensure that all delays and seals are intact with no cracks or tears. 

Check screen 

Window grilles and screen doors are mainly used to keep nasty insects out. Check all screens for cracks and replace or repair if necessary. 





Fall Home Maintenance Guide 

  1. Winter at home. 

Make sure there are no leaves or debris in your drains and downspouts. This will help reduce water buildup in the drains, prevent clogging, and keep the roof in good form. 

  1. Prepare your home interior

After the yard has been cleaned, you need to make sure the home interior is kept cleaned also A simple trick in home maintenance is to reverse the ceiling fan direction. Running them clockwise can pull up the air conditioner and keep the room comfortable. If you set the fan to low speed, you can use the furnace even more efficiently. 

Another simple trick is to turn it off when it gets cold outside. Use a thicker blanket and choose flannel. Warmer bedding can help you reduce the need to start the furnace and can save energy costs! 

  1. Set up the furnace

The stove must be stopped before winter. This is one of the most important fall maintenance tasks you can do. During the winter, your crucible will do a lot of heavy lifting to keep your family warm and comfortable. Successful optimization can make your system more energy-efficient. This is a great opportunity to spot small issues before they get serious and turn them into high maintenance costs. 

If you have a working chimney, please check and clean it professionally before using it this season. Also, buy firewood for a full season before early fall and stack it neatly outside the home. Delivering your firewood can be expensive in winter. 

  1. Practice fire protection

Frequent use of chimney during winter increases the risk of fire in the home. Take the time to focus on fire safety by testing every smoke alarm in your home and replacing the battery. This little maintenance step for your home can not only make you worry about using the chimney; it can also keep your family safe if something happens.  

  1. Check the attic insulation

An important part of autumn home maintenance is checking the attic’s insulation and replacing or adding more insulation if necessary. In the colder months, inadequate attic insulation is one of the biggest causes of heat loss. Look around the entire room. If you see the floor joists popping out, you may need more insulation. For significant tasks, consider hiring a professional to perform a comprehensive inspection and repair of the insulation. 

  1. Protect your pipeline

Before freezing for the first time, make sure your plumbing is well insulated. You can use insulation foam, thermal tape, or even a few layers of rags or newspapers to prepare the pipe. If you’re freezing badly and still worrying about the pipes freezing, you can turn on the faucet until it starts trickling. A small amount of water is usually enough to prevent freezing. For the internal sink, open the cabinet door at the bottom so that the heated indoor air can enter the duct. 

  1. Check your roof

Prepare the roof for rain and snow. Look at the roof from the ground. If it’s safe, use a ladder to look at the top of the roof. Look for broken or missing shingles and large areas of rust or discoloration. If you find any of these, it might be time to ask a professional to review and fix any problems before the rain arrives. If you cannot see the roof with certainty, contact a professional to have it checked. 

  1. Check the smoke and carbon monoxide alarms

The weather is already cool. Even if it gets cooler, you will use the heater more. If you have a fireplace, you can relax by the fireplace from time to time. The risk of correctly installing fireplaces is small, but you are not too safe if it catches fire and carbon monoxide. Fall home maintenance inspections should include testing smoke and carbon monoxide alarms and replacing batteries or old monitors that have stopped working. 

  1. Prepare your pool for winter

If you do not live in a warm area of ​​the country and can use the swimming pool all year round, you need to protect the cold swimming pool. Fall is the time of year to accomplish this task. It takes a lot of work to keep the pool safe from the cold, but you can do it yourself. 

All pipes and filter systems in the pool must cleaned to prevent the water from freezing and damage in cold winter. If you don’t know how to handle it, please have a professional carry out the maintenance and necessary repairs. 

Chapter 2

From building the foundation to the final painting, all aspects of house building are an art form and are carried out by qualified professionals selected by the builder. By following the homeowner’s maintenance booklet tips, you can resolve small problems before it becomes big ones. Your home will retain its value, and you will experience the pride of ownership for many years to come. This booklet is not intended as a step-by-step do-it-yourself guide, but it does provide useful information on how to care for and maintain the home. Please note that repairs carried out by the homeowner or persons authorized by the homeowner can invalidate the manufacturer’s or manufacturer’s guarantee on the repaired item.

While knowing what to do before making repairs is essential. Knowing when to stop is also crucial. If the project is more complicated than you initially thought and beyond what you can handle… please stop. Contact someone who is more experienced than you preferably a licensed contractor. It is better to acknowledge the lack of knowledge than complicate the problem which will inevitably lead to unexpected expenses.

An accident happened. They are called accidents because they should never have happen. They often occur because the victim lacks preventive measures.

As homeowners, invest a few dollars in protecting your eyes, and proper shoes and gloves to prevent injury. Always wear long sleeves and gloves when working on fiberglass insulation. After completing the project, you should shower as soon as possible.

Every family should have one or more ladders. When choosing a ladder, make sure it meets the requirements for your arms’ reach and weight. Never use aluminum ladders when working on or near electrical equipment. For most applications, a fiberglass conductor is recommended. Pay particular attention to the warning signs on the ladder. They are there to protect you.

It is essential to understand how to use all household tools. Please read all the enclosed instructions carefully before attempting to use the tool.

If your home has a household backup generator, please read the manufacturer’s maintenance manual before performing regular maintenance.

A first aid kit must always be available. Remember, using common sense while working at home can help avoid the trauma of going to the emergency room.

Run over emergency

Your client will show you where the main shut-off valve and switch are in your house. Every qualified person in your household should know where these switches and valves are and how to turn them off in an emergency.


Electricity has no friend. Never attempt electrical repairs unless you know exactly what you are doing.

If other services or major repairs are required, please call a licensed technician.

Even if you try to make minor repairs, you need to turn off the power to the devices in use. This must be done in the circuit breaker box. Turning off the wall or the light bulb switch does not always prevent electric shock.

Every socket, every light, and every electrical device is controlled by the circuit breaker in the main switch box. Each circuit should be labeled, and you should know how it works. Never try to circumvent the purpose of the circuit breaker. If it “trips” frequently, it usually indicates a more serious problem. Call a qualified licensed electrician. The following simple steps can help prevent severe electric shock: 

  1. Open the circuit breaker box and find a suitable circuit breaker. Turn it off.
  2. Close the panel door and put a note on the front of the box to let others know

You turned off the circuit breaker and didn’t touch anything. If the panel can be locked, please lock it. 


Chapter 3

Home hack tips you may not know

From cooking to cleaning to regular maintenance, restructuring the home feels like a never-ending cycle. That’s why we’ve gathered 23 home hacks to make your life comfortable. They are affordable, easy to complete, and potentially save you valuable time and energy.

Not everyone has the latest smart home devices on their walls, and many thermostats or alarm systems are bulky and outdated. Painting on canvas is the perfect solution. Attaching the hinge to one side of the canvas allows you to cover the thermostat or alarm system with the hollow canvas back while maintaining accessibility. Also, this is another piece to add to your decoration to keep the entire space together.

Pot and lids can be difficult to store because they cannot be stacked neatly and take up a ridiculous amount of space. Use vertical wire magazine holders instead to keep them in order. Now you will find that the pot’s right lid is faster, and the risk of a lid avalanche can be minimized.

The curling irons and hairdryer can get tangled easily. Using hook and loop tape, attach a 5-inch long, 2-inch diameter PVC pipe to the dressing table to make a curling iron. Do the same with a 3-inch long tube 1 1/2 inches in diameter to secure the wires.

Hairdryers may require a 5-inch diameter PVC connector. If you can’t install 5 inch PVC faucets on the dressing table, you can use a free-standing PVC hair dryer stand that can be painted and decorated.

Before decorating furniture, use toothpaste to wipe stains and marks on the wood. Gel-like texture and baking soda content can improve cleaners and scratches. Be sure to rub the toothpaste in the same direction as the wood grain.

If you get a tough stain on a pair of white sneakers, baking soda and washing powder can fix it well. Add one part baking soda and 1 1/2 parts washing powder. Use a toothbrush to scrub the outside. Then put them in the washing machine with a small amount of regular detergent.

The sliding carpet is an accident waiting to happen. Without spending any money on the rug or pillow, you can achieve the same effect by applying several rows of sealant to the back of the rug. This creates traction and prevents the carpet from moving.

The storage room door is often not used. Now, if you hang a shoe organizer on the side of the storage room door, you have handy pockets to keep snacks and other small items, or they will get lost.

Old cans of paint tend to dry out, and prying them back out can be a mess, causing the flakes to fall all over the place. At the end of painting, store excess paint in a glass container, e.g., a metal bottle. This makes it easy to pull out the same color for quick cropping in the future.

Instead of folding the end of the tape to mark where you stopped, place a paper clip on the end. Now you don’t have to cut the folded part anymore. You can reduce wasted paper tape, no longer have to worry about folding, and know exactly where the paper roll starts.

Air fresheners and scented candles are traditional methods that can freshen up your home. However, they may not be ideal for your health and air quality. A simple alternative is to boil a vanilla pod in two cups of water on the stove. This causes the faint aroma of vanilla to spread around your house and smell like freshly baked cookies.

In winter, your ceiling fan should spin clockwise. This creates an upward flow of air that pushes the hot air down near the ceiling. However, in summer, you may need to change the direction of the ceiling fan counterclockwise. This pushes the cold air down and creates a wind chill effect.

The secret has been revealed: thieves and strangers often check spare keys under the flower pots. Instead, hide the spare key in the medicine bottle with a pinecone glued on the end. Then bury it in the pineal gland. When locked out, you know exactly where to pull it out of the ground.

Heavy furniture will weigh the carpet and leave obvious dents. Put ice cubes on the carpet and let it melt for a few hours. The water should swell the pile of carpets. Soak up the excess water and use a coin to lift the fiber.

Drill a small hole in the bottom of the can to easily remove the trash bag from the can. This will reduce the pressure, create a vacuum-like seal, and allow your bag to glue to the can.

A squeegee (the same squeegee you use on a window) can collect more pet hair than a lint roller. Pet hair can be removed from larger surfaces such as furniture and carpets with a single wipe.

If there is no metal groove on the screw after loosening the thread, removal will seem hopeless. Place a rubber band between the screw and the screwdriver or drill. You will get the right traction to loosen and swap out the threaded bolts.

Sometimes it can be difficult to organize water bottles, cold glasses with straws, travel mugs, and other reusable food and storage containers, especially when each family member has multiple containers. In that case, the shoe organizer on the door is a great way to keep each of your items separate and easy to access.

Although shoe racks are ideal for shoes, flip flops are often thrown away and lost. The letter organizer allows you to store them together vertically, save space, and keep the pairs together.

If your child like to put almost anything in their mouth, it is good to clean the toy regularly. One way to disinfect small toys is to put them all in a mesh laundry bag. The bag can be put directly on the top shelf of the washing machine or dishwasher, and you don’t have to worry about damaging the washing machine or children’s toys.

Instead of buying a key cover in a different color, it is better to paint the key’s head with a different color of nail polish. Now you can easily identify the key even if you are in a hurry.

If you have a garage, opening the door and trunk can peel the paint off or dent the vehicle if you bump into the garage wall or roof. Cut the pool in half or cut the noodles in half and paste into the garage’s key area. This prevents accidental driving to the garage.

Tired of clothes sliding off hangers? Instead of buying a non-slip hanger, try putting a layer of hot melt glue on each side of the hanger. Let the beads cool, and you will have a non-slip hanger to keep clothes from slipping off.

Use the citrus peel to remove food odors when disposing of garbage. If you run water under medium pressure, add orange or lemon peel. Natural citric acid can help soften hard water, attack odor-causing bacteria, and keep your sink smelling fresh.

In the long run, these home hack skills can save you thousands of dollars.

Chapter Four

Home Maintenance tips

Most of us are not DIY enthusiasts, and not everyone enjoys doing various maintenance jobs as homeowners. However, with regular attention and key instructions from industry experts, you can keep your home in perfect condition year-round.

With this homeowner booklet, you can perform important preventative maintenance on your home system, save energy at any time of the year, extend the life of your equipment, and

Ceiling and Exhaust Fans

How to clean and maintain ceiling and exhaust fans

Exhaust and ceiling fans make your home more comfortable and can even help reduce household energy consumption. If you don’t maintain the fans regularly, they can wear out or fail faster. Knowing how to clean exhaust and ceiling fans is key to maintaining good working conditions. Fortunately, maintenance takes little time and effort. Please follow these exhaust and ceiling fan maintenance tips to keep the fans in good condition.

The bathrooms in most homes only have exhaust fans that can control humidity and purify the air. Like any fan, the exhaust fan picks up particles that have accumulated on the blades and engine. If this build-up is not regularly removed by thoroughly cleaning the exhaust fan, it can affect the fan’s function and shorten its service life. Follow the steps below to clean the exhaust fan in your home properly: 

  1. Remove the Exhaust cover

Remove the exhaust fan cover by standing on a sturdy ladder or footstool. It’s usually held in place with a metal tension clip that must be squeezed firmly to remove – no tools required! On some models, the cover can be screwed on. You can clean the lid by washing thoroughly with detergent and warm water. 

  1. Vacuum out Dust

With the fan blades and motor exposed, use the vacuum wand attachment to remove as much dust as possible. You will see the cleaning wand as an extension son the vacuum cleaner. 

  1. Wipe the blade with a Dusting Cloth

Use a dry and clean cloth to remove dust from the blade and other internal components gently. Try to clean stubborn dirt with a damp cloth. After that, just put the cover back on, and the fan is clean and ready.  

Like exhaust fans, ceiling fans can benefit from regular cleaning. Follow the ceiling fan maintenance tips below to learn how to clean the fan motor, lubricate the fan bearings, and wipe the fan blades to keep all components working properly. 

  1. Vacuum and Dust the fan

Use a vacuum wand attachment to remove all dust from the fan blades and the fan exposed parts. A lot of dust accumulates on the ceiling fan. You may need to wear a mask while cleaning to prevent the inhalation of dust. 

Another popular household trick is to clean the blade with an old pillowcase. Wrap the fan blades in the pillowcase and apply pressure on the blades to wipe the dust into the case. Repeat these steps for each blade. When you’re done, remove the dust from the pillowcase, then wash it. 

You can also wipe each blade with a damp cloth. Rinse the cloth after each blade to remove excess dust. 

  1. Tighten the screws

If you hear a click when the fan turns on, the screws or other parts of the fan system may be loose. Check all components and use a screwdriver to tighten anything that may be loose. Also, check for any missing screws and replace them to make sure the ceiling fan is secure. 

  1. Clean the fan motor

The ceiling fan motor’s outer cover will keep most of the dust from getting in, but some dust will still get in. To clean the motor, simply apply a vacuum to the slot on the motor cover. This should help remove any excess dust on the fan motor. 


  1. Lubricate the ceiling fan bearings

Lubrication is the last step in maintaining the fan. Many fans, especially the newer ones, are maintenance-free and do not need to be oiled. Others may have a small fuel tank on top of the engine, and you should add a few drops of oil frequently. 

Ceiling fans with sealed motors may be more difficult to lubricate. 

To clean the sealed motor: 

  • Turn off the power supply, disconnect the fan, and remove it from the ceiling. 
  • Separate the fan blades from the motor base. 
  • Open the motor housing. 
  • With the top and bottom bearings exposed, you should be able to add grease. 

In general, newer ceiling fans do not require regular lubrication, but sometimes they do. If you hear a squeak or grind while the fan is on, you may need lubrication. If you need help lubricating the ceiling fan, please contact a licensed technician. 

Why clean the washing machine? 

Over time, minerals and debris build up in the machine. This hinders the washing machine from being cleaned; it also makes the washing machine less effective. This simple cleaning process is done with daily needs, which keeps clothes fresh and the washing machine in excellent condition! 

Follow these quick steps for maintaining the washing machine. 

What do you need? 

You can use the items you already have at home to complete this easy cleaning process. To clean the washing machine, you will need a liter of bleach. If you don’t want to use bleach, you can use a white vinegar quart. 

How do I clean the washing machine? 

  1. Set the washing machine’s load size to the maximum setting and the water temperature control to the hottest setting.

This allows a large amount of hot water to fill the machine and flush out its residue. Unlike normal laundry washing, idling when the machine runs on this cycle means that no new germs or dirt can get inside the machine. 

  1. Start the wash cycle and add a quart of bleach or white vinegar as you fill the washing machine. Wait a minute for the machine to move, then open the lid to stop the cycle. Let the water, bleach, or vinegar stay in the machine for an hour.

Both bleach and white vinegar are used as disinfectants. Once mixed with hot water, this solution will thoroughly clean the inside of the washing machine, removing any accumulated minerals, debris, and bacteria that could affect its effectiveness. Just like soaking a burnt saucepan in dish soap, it helps to let the bleach-water mixture sit for an hour to ensure that any residue on the cake is removed. 

  1. After one hour, close the lid to allow the cycle to complete normally.
  2. Clean the water inlet filter and the lint filter.

Don’t worry if you can’t find this feature in your washing machine.  If you are not sure, please check online. If you have them on your machine, please follow the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning as they vary according to machine. 

Have fun with your clean washing machine! 

Your washing machine plays a very important role in your home. It deserves this quick and easy household cleaning process to keep running efficiently. 

Is there condensation in the fridge? 5 reasons and solutions 

If you recently noticed condensation in the fridge, you should take the necessary steps to investigate the situation further. This may be temporary, or it may be a symptom of a mechanical problem that requires professionals’ attention. Whatever the outcome, it is better to know now than to wait and see what happens. 

Fortunately, this is a fairly common problem, and many reasons are largely harmless.  

These are the five common condensation in the fridge causes and solutions. 

Causes Solutions 
Open Policy 
Opening and staring at the items in the refrigerator frequently. 

Several people in your household regularly open the refrigerator door 

The continuous penetration of warm air into the cool environment leads to a reaction in which moisture occurs.  

The seal on the fridge door can be a problem, Make sure there are no holes or tears. 

Minimize the amount of time the refrigerator door is open.  

Repair or replace the door seal if necessary. 

High Humidity 
Refrigerators do not like high humidity. Due to the moisture in the atmosphere around the device, condensation may form in the refrigerator, and the moisture will eventually enter the refrigerator compartment. If possible, use air conditioning and keep the windows closed. This will reduce the humidity in the kitchen and minimize the moisture content in the refrigerator 
Sweaty agricultural products 


Putting moist food in the refrigerator can cause condensation. This is because the moisture evaporates from the food and is at the bottom of the compartment. This can also cause your food to spoil quickly. Let the product dry a little before putting it in the refrigerator.  


Fridge Level 
After all, a refrigerator that isn’t level won’t work properly. On many models, the water does not flow to the drain as intended. As a result, it can stay at the bottom of the device without being noticed due to crisper and other compartments preventing you from seeing what is happening at the bottom. The presence of this water could create moisture. 


Refrigerators come with adjustable legs. You have probably noticed that you can turn little wheels under them. Adjust these wheels so that the device is level. You can test this by placing a layer along the bottom of the device. After you’ve taken care of this, slide the compartments at the bottom of the refrigerator out of the way, and remove the standing water. That should solve the problem. 


Other Problems 
Mechanical Issues Consult a professional to look at your device and decide what to do. 


Maintenance of the Clothes dryer 

Clothes dryer maintenance tips 

Washing is probably one of the most common household chores. Without a working washing machine and dryer, this task would be considerably more difficult. For this reason, it is important to routinely maintain your clothes dryer to keep it in good condition. 

These are some of the clothes dryer maintenance tips so you can save money and make your home safer. 

  1. Clean the lint

Lint is an unavoidable by-product of using dryers. An important part of dryer maintenance is emptying the lint filter after each dryer cycle to improve efficiency and reduce fire risk. Even if you’re running a light load with very little lint on the screen, you should still remove it. 

An important safety measure is cleaning the vent pipe from your dryer to the outside. Lint often flows through this pipe and can build up both in the pipe and on the outside vent. If your clothes are taking longer to dry than usual, this may be a sign that you need to clean the vent pipe. 

Best practices for maintaining the dryer include cleaning the tube at least once a year. Make sure the gas flowing to the dryer is turned off before performing any maintenance. A great tool for cleaning the entire pipe is a pipe brush with a long, flexible handle.  

Lint can also build up under and behind your dryer. So when cleaning the vent pipe, you will need to move the dryer to reach these areas. It is also helpful to open the dryer to reveal the motor, belt, and drum as these areas can build up lint. If you are unsure how to open the dryer safely, contact an equipment technician for routine maintenance. 



  1. Wash the lint screen

During routine clothes dryer maintenance, washing the lint screen can be helpful. Some debris on the lint screen can block airflow, and washing thoroughly can remove excess dirt. 

You will know if the screen needs cleaning by taking it to the sink and pouring some water through it. If the water collects on the screen and does not flow through, you need to clean it thoroughly. Carefully wash the lint screen with detergent and warm water. 

  1. Be careful what you put in the dryer.

The maintenance technique of the clothe dryer is the simplest one: make sure that there are no loose items in all pockets, such as pens, coins, lipstick, or anything that may damage the clothes. Be sure to wash your wet clothes before drying them to ensure that all dirt is washed away. 

  1. Clean the dryer drum

There will be no need to clean the dryer’s inner tube frequently if you have been putting items that are clean in the dryer. However, if something enter your dryer (e.g lipstick), you should clean it instantly. 

Wiping the roller with a damp cloth can easily remove excess dust and hair. If sticky items appear on the dryer drum side, run the dryer for a few minutes to heat the substance, and then scrape it off with a scraper or the edge of a credit card. 


  1. Check the vents and pipes

Besides cleaning the vents and pipes for excess fluff, you also need to check that the channels provide the best airflow. Make sure that there are no kinks in the ventilation system so that air can flow out freely. Hire professional equipment technicians to complete these dirty tasks. Professional dryer vent maintenance can help prevent dangerous malfunctions that can cause fires, overheating, excessive drying time, and mold growth. 

  1. Clean the exterior

Water, detergent, bleach, and dust may accumulate on the outside of the dryer. Wipe the outside of the dryer with a damp cloth. This not only removes dirt but also improves the aesthetics of your house. 

  1. Check the Flap of the external vent

Usually, the dryer’s air pressure will open the damper, and if there is no such pressure, the damper will remain closed. If you open it, it may cause HVAC-treated air to leak out of your house, harmful organisms may enter, or the dryer’s efficiency may decrease. If the sticky flaps cannot be opened and closed properly, you should lubricate or replace it. 

  1. Keep the dryer level

You should make sure that the dryer is on the ground. In addition to being noisy, unbalanced clothes dryers can also cause jitter, which will wear belts and motors prematurely and loosen certain clothes dryers’ hardware. Make sure your clothes are evenly distributed and don’t overfill your luggage. Place a spirit level on the machine to see if the surface is flat. Use a wrench or pliers to adjust the legs, or move the dryer around to make it run more efficiently and quietly. 

How Hot Should a Dryer Get? 

Hang drying clothes is time-consuming and drains energy. A dryer makes it easier.  

The dryer not only saves time, but it also keeps our clothes fresh. Heat plays an important role in the drying capacity of the dryer, but too much heat can be a problem. If you want to know how much the dryer heats and the optimal temperature, please understand why the dryer got too hot or why it didn’t get hot enough. 

How hot does a dryer get? 

The temperature reached by the dryer depends on the make and model of the dryer and the setting of the dryer. The average temperature of most dryers is 125 to 135 degrees Fahrenheit. 

It is important to note that water does not have to reach a boiling point to start perspiration and evaporation. Consider having a cup of hot coffee. Although the water in the coffee is not boiling, a lot of steam is still coming out of the cup. Therefore, the temperature of the dryer should not be heated so much that it will burn clothes. 



Instructions for setting the dryer heat 

Both the dryer and the laundry provide information on setting the appropriate drying temperature. These dryer settings are directly related to the warmth of the dryer. To avoid damage, some clothes require a cooler dryer setting. 

Although temperature settings can vary from different manufacturers, most settings offer fine, permanent pressure, and normal settings. The clothing label usually indicates which setting is best or recommends dry cleaning. 

The gentle cycle is ideal for materials like rayon or silk. The permanent pressing is best for everyday clothing, while the normal setting should be used for items such as towels, sheets, and jeans. 

How to know that the dryer is too hot 

Signs of overheating of the dryer indicate damage to clothing. If you pull the laundry out of the dryer and find burn marks on it, it means that the dryer is operating at too high a temperature. If your dryer feels hot to the touch, this could be another sign of overheating. Of course, the dryer feels a bit warm when running, but it shouldn’t be too hot. 

How to fix a dryer overheating problem 

If you find that the dryer is overheating, you should resolve the problem as soon as possible. Note that overheating can negatively affect the dryer itself. If the problem is not resolved, excessive heat can damage the dryer’s various components and cause damage. There are a few issues that can affect the temperature of the dryer. 


Problem Likely Cause Solution 
Airflow problem Airflow is blocked in the dryer. Make sure that no lint accumulates in the trap.  

Clean the lint trap after each loading. 

Use a vacuum cleaner to remove lint from the vents and ducts 

Damaged heating element or burner 


Dryer heat source is not working properly Replace the heating element or the burner on the dryer. 

Please refer to your user manual to ensure that you have ordered the correct replacement parts. 


Damaged circulation thermostat 


Circulation thermostat is damaged. Open the top and front (and possibly the back) of the dryer to access the circulation thermostat. Use a multi-meter to test the thermostat. A value of zero or infinity indicates that it is working. If the reading is not good, replace the thermostat. 


Tripping of the safety thermostat 


The safety thermostat or high-limit thermostat switches off the heating source.  


A single trip on the safety thermostat can interfere with proper function and must be replaced. If the safety thermostat does not work, the dryer may overheat. 

It is also important to note that if the safety thermostat trips, the tumble dryer may malfunction and cause overheating. Make sure that other components are working properly and that there is no obstruction to airflow. 


Bad fan wheel 


A cracked fan wheel can obstruct normal airflow in the dryer and cause overheating. 


Open the top of the dryer and faceplate and check the fan wheel. You may need to separate the drum bearing’s drying drum to access the electric motor with the fan wheel.  

Check if the fan impeller is defective and if any obstacles are preventing the impeller from rotating. If the fan wheel is damaged, replace it.  

Please consult your user manual to ensure you have purchased the correct replacement parts. 



The dryer is not hot enough. 

If the dryer temperature is not hot enough, it may not work properly. The table below shows some of the problems, likely causes and solutions to a dryer that is not dry enough. 

Problem Likely Causes Solution 
Thermostat failure A thermostat that cannot read the temperature correctly may feel that the temperature is much higher than the actual temperature Solve the problem by checking the thermostat unit’s wiring. If that doesn’t work, make sure to replace it. 
Bad heat source Damaged heating elements or burners may not heat the air properly.  Check the dryer heat source and open your eyes to see any chips or cracks nearby.  


Defective Timing motor  


If the timer doesn’t work properly, it may not set the heater to heat the air flowing through the dryer.  


Test the timing motor by removing the timing motor from the control panel (unplugging the power cord first) and connecting it to a multi-meter. 
High limit thermostat 


Failure of the upper thermostat can lead to insufficient heating and overheating. Incorrect temperature readings can trigger the upper-temperature regulator before the temperature reaches the upper limit. Replace the upper-temperature regulator. 



Why is my dryer not spinning? 

Many things can prevent the dryer from doing its job effectively. The common problem is that the dryer won’t spin. While many issues prevent the dryer from spinning here, a few common causes can help you resolve the problem. 

How to tell if the dryer has stopped spinning 

If you’re like most people, you may tend to toss your clothes in the dryer, turn it on, and walk away. If your clothes are still wet when you return, think of this as a sign that the dryer is not rolling properly. 

The dryer can also spin but will stop in the middle of the cycle. This is a sign of whether your clothes are still wet after going through the dryer. 

Note: If you fill the dryer with water, the clothes may not have enough room to turn around easily, even if the dryer is spinning. This can trap steam in the dryer and cause your clothes to stay damp after the entire cycle. 

Reasons and solutions for a non-rotating dryer 

Check out some of these troubleshooting steps to determine why the dryer might not be spinning and how to get it back in working condition. 

Check that the dryer has power. 

If you turn on the dryer, but absolutely nothing happens, there may be a power problem. Make sure the dryer is in place. If the dryer is not plugged in, plug it in to restore power. 

If you find that the dryer is connected, check the circuit breaker to see if the dryer circuit breaker has tripped. If so, reset the dryer circuit breaker by turning it off completely and then on again. If this does not turn the dryer again, please contact a professional equipment technician. 

Check the door switch. 

For safety reasons, the dryer has a switch to ensure that the dryer does not work when the door is open. First, check that the door is fully closed and working with the door switch. Solving the problem may require a quick adjustment of the door. After confirming that the door has closed and the switch has been properly pressed, it’s time to check the switch yourself. 

Please pull the power plug out of the socket before attempting to remove the switch. After turning off the dryer, you can check the door switch. 

The switch is usually a small white cylindrical nail near the door lock. Disconnect the cable from the door switch so that you can test with a digital multi-meter. 

If you need to replace the door switch, you can find the door switch kit online to do it yourself. If you are not satisfied with the DIY repair, please contact a repair technician. 

Check the drive belt. 

Drive belt damage is a common cause of non-rotating tumble dryers. As mentioned above, this may not come as a surprise since the belt’s main job is to turn the drum. 

Before opening the dryer to touch the drive belt, there is an easy way to check for a problem with the drive belt by trying to spin the drum yourself. Just open the drying door, grab the inside of the drum, and turn it. There should be some resistance. If you can turn the drum easily, there may be a problem with the belt. 

To check the belt: 

  • Disconnect the machine from the power supply or switch off the dryer. 
  • Loosen all clamps attached to the top of the dryer with a spatula. 

Take the top of the dryer out of the drying cabinet. 

Find the dryer belt. The drying belt is usually made of very thin black rubber. If you can’t see the belt, it may have slipped, which immediately indicates why the drum isn’t rotating. If the belt is broken or damaged, it must be replaced. 

Replace the drive belt: 

  • Loosen the clamp with a spatula and carefully pull the front part away from the dryer cabinet. 
  • With the front panel removed, find the motor and idler pulley to the rear of the drum and loosen the belt on both. 
  • Gently lift the photosensitive drum and slide it to remove it from the drum bearing (away from the back of the dryer). 
  • Slide the belt away from the drum. 
  • Take the new dryer belt, wrap it around the drum, reconnect the drum to the drum bearing, and place the belt back on the pulley and motor pulley. 

Check the pulley assembly. 

The pulley assembly in the dryer keeps the drive belt tensioner to grip the pulley without slipping. If the pulley assembly is loose or damaged, the belt may not stay on the drum. 

The pulley in the dryer is made up of small rubber or plastic wheels on metal arms. A broken pulley or a broken arm of the pulley can cause malfunction. Blocked or difficult-to-move wheels can prevent the belt from rotating the drum freely. 

To access the pulley assembly: 

  • Remove the top and front covers of the dryer and locate the idler pulley next to the motor. The tension created by the drive belt goes a long way in keeping the idler pulley in place. 
  • Slide the belt away from the motor, and you should be able to pull out the pulley. 
  • Replace the pulley with a new pulley assembly by threading the drive belt through the new idler pulley and the new motor. 

Check thermal fuse 

The thermal fuse is an important safety function of the dryer. It turns off automatically when the the dryer is too hot. A faulty thermal fuse can interrupt the motor’s power supply while the heating element remains switched on. This may be the reason the dryer is not spinning. 

The thermal fuse is usually located on the back of the dryer near the fan and motor.  

To access the fuse: 

  • Pull the dryer away from the wall and pull out the power plug. 
  • Remove the back of the dryer. You may need a screwdriver or socket wrench to remove the screws. 
  • Loosen the wire inserted into the fuse and remove the screw that holds the fuse in place. Replace the thermal fuse. 

A defective thermal fuse is often a sign of another problem. If your fuse has blown, please check the other parts of the dryer. Ensure that the wires do not cross each other and that the heating element is clean, free of debris, and not in contact with other metals.  

Why is my dryer not drying my clothes? 

 If your dryer doesn’t dry out, replacing it can be very expensive and expensive. 

Before replacing, read these common dryer problems and troubleshooting tips to help you out. 

Check the basics 

Below are some basic things to check first to know why your dryer is not drying clothes. 

 Is the dryer connected to the power source? 

Make sure the dryer is plugged into a power source. If the dryer is plugged in, but there is still no sign of power-up, check the circuit breaker. If the dryer circuit trips, reset it. 

If you have an electric dryer, it will work in two circuits: one circuit for the heating element and the other circuit for the rest of the dryer. If the dryer warms up but does not dry, one of the two circuits may be tripped. Check the circuit breaker again and reset the circuit as needed. 



Are you overloading the dryer? 

Make sure you don’t put too many clothes in the dryer. Putting too much clothes could place excessive pressure on the dryer motor, roller bearings, and other dryer components. This can also prevent your clothes from drying properly. 

Check the vents and ducts. 

Airflow plays an important role in the normal drying of clothes. Part of the normal operation of the dryer is the flow of air through the dryer openings. Clogged vents are a common cause of poor airflow in the dryer system. One way to determine if the dryer vent is blocked is to turn on the dryer and go outside to feel the airflow exiting the vent. If the weather is slow and not too warm, it might be because you need to clean the ventilation holes.  

Try the following steps to clean the vent: 

  • Disconnect the dryer from the power source. 
  • Pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect it from the vent. 
  • Remove the vent filter cover from the outside and start cleaning the vent. The cause of the blockage is likely due to the build-up of lint. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove lint from the ventilation holes. 
  • After the dryer vent has been cleaned, reconnect it to the dryer, slide the dryer back into its original position, and then insert it. 


Clean the lint trap 

Excessive build-up of piles in the lint collector can obstruct airflow through the dryer. Clean the lint and get into the habit of cleaning the lint after each use. For more thorough cleaning, wash with warm soapy water and allow it to dry completely. 

Check the door switch. 

The dryer has a door switch that prevents the dryer from running when the door is open. If the dryer doesn’t work, make sure the door is closed. If the door is closed but still not working, please open the door and press the door switch manually before starting the machine again. When the dryer is on, you may only need to adjust the door settings to make it press the door switch when it is closed. If it still doesn’t work, your door switch may be defective and need to be replaced. 

Are your clothes too wet? 

The dryer is not used to drain wet clothes. If your clothes are too wet after washing, they may not be completely dried out of the normal dryer cycle. Check your washing machine’s settings, make sure the cycle is correct, and check for possible malfunctions. 

Going beyond the basics 

If basic troubleshooting does not resolve your dryer issue, you may need to check further for likely issues. These tasks involve more mechanical and technical aspects but are easy enough for DIY enthusiasts to try out. 

Check the drive belt. 

Drive belt damage is a common cause of non-rotating tumble dryers. As mentioned above, this may not come as a surprise since the belt’s main job is to turn the drum. 

Before opening the dryer to touch the drive belt, there is an easy way to check for a problem with the drive belt by trying to spin the drum yourself. Just open the drying door, grab the inside of the drum, and turn it. There should be some resistance. If you can turn the drum easily, there may be a problem with the belt. 

To check the belt: 

  • Disconnect the machine from the power supply or switch off the dryer. 
  • Loosen all clamps attached to the top of the dryer with a spatula. 

Take the top of the dryer out of the drying cabinet. 

Find the dryer belt. The drying belt is usually made of very thin black rubber. If you can’t see the belt, it may have slipped, which immediately indicates why the drum isn’t rotating. If the belt is broken or damaged, it must be replaced. 

Replace the drive belt: 

  • Loosen the clamp with a spatula and carefully pull the front part away from the dryer cabinet. 
  • With the front panel removed, find the motor and idler pulley to the rear of the drum and loosen the belt on both. 
  • Gently lift the photosensitive drum and slide it to remove it from the drum bearing (away from the back of the dryer). 
  • Slide the belt away from the drum. 
  • Take the new dryer belt, wrap it around the drum, reconnect the drum to the drum bearing, and place the belt back on the pulley and motor pulley. 

Check the pulley assembly. 

The pulley assembly in the dryer keeps the drive belt tensioner to grip the pulley without slipping. If the pulley assembly is loose or damaged, the belt may not stay on the drum. 

The pulley in the dryer is made up of small rubber or plastic wheels on metal arms. A broken pulley or a broken arm of the pulley can cause malfunction. Blocked or difficult-to-move wheels can prevent the belt from rotating the drum freely. 

To access the pulley assembly: 

  • Remove the top and front covers of the dryer and locate the idler pulley next to the motor. The tension created by the drive belt goes a long way in keeping the idler pulley in place. 
  • Slide the belt away from the motor, and you should be able to pull out the pulley. 
  • Replace the pulley with a new pulley assembly by threading the drive belt through the new idler pulley and the new motor. 

Check thermal fuse 

The thermal fuse is an important safety function of the dryer. It turns off automatically when the dryer is too hot. A faulty thermal fuse can interrupt the motor’s power supply while the heating element remains switched on. This may be the reason the dryer is not spinning. 

The thermal fuse is usually located on the back of the dryer near the fan and motor.  

To access the fuse: 

  • Pull the dryer away from the wall and pull out the power plug. 
  • Remove the back of the dryer. You may need a screwdriver or socket wrench to remove the screws. 
  • Loosen the wire inserted into the fuse and remove the screw that holds the fuse in place. Replace the thermal fuse. 

A defective thermal fuse is often a sign of another problem. If your fuse has blown, please check the other parts of the dryer. Ensure that the wires do not cross each other and that the heating element is clean, free of debris, and not in contact with other metals.  

Washing machine maintenance 

The washing machine is essential equipment to keep your house fresh and clean. However, for the washing machine to serve you well, you need to take care of the washing machine.  

Follow the maintenance tips below to extend your appliances’ life and prevent accidental failures. 

  1. Check the machine periodically

As part of washing machine maintenance, please check the washing machine carefully every few months. You are more likely to find the problem before it becomes confusing, expensive, or even dangerous. 

It is imperative to check all the hoses going in and out of the washing machine and the connections to the washing machine for signs of cracks, leaks, or blockages, including the water inlet valve, bathtub, and drain system. It is best to leave a few inches between the washing machine and the wall. This will help prevent the hose from kinking. 

If a leak is found, immediately unplug the power cord and turn off the power. Before using the washing machine again, you need to repair the leak and clean the water. 

  1. Pay attention to noises

It is best to listen to the operation of the washing machine regularly. If you find it sounds awkward or hear a rattle, there may be a problem with the machine. Before a more serious problem occurs, you may need to call a professional to check the washing machine. 

  1. Use the correct detergent

If you own a High Efficiency Machine (HE), using the right detergent is an important part of washing machine maintenance. When buying a detergent, check the “HE” label, which says it is safe for high-efficiency machines. Using standard detergents in High Efficiency machines can leave excess on the machine drums. 

Adding more detergent will not make your clothes cleaner. Using too much detergent can leave excess on the washing machine drum that will be difficult to remove. Be sure to follow the instructions in the instruction manual and in the detergent packaging to determine the type and amount of detergent suitable for your machine. 

  1. Keep the washing machine clean

Another important maintenance technique for washing machines is to keep the inside of the washing machine clean. Make sure that the following areas are thoroughly cleaned during maintenance: 

  • Wash fabric softener dispenser. If your washing machine comes with a fabric softener dispenser, clean it regularly. Fabric softeners tend to leave a sticky residue that can cause the dispenser to stick or even leak. 
  • Clean the filter. Many washing machines have one or more filters, e.g., Lint collectors or water inlet filters, which must be cleaned as part of the washing machine’s regular maintenance. You should check the original manual documentation to understand where and how to clean these filters. 
  • Rinse the gasket in the washing machine. When closing the machine door, a dirty seal can prevent the gasket. If you notice any cracks or tears while cleaning the machine, you will need to replace the gasket. 
  • Wipe the exterior. Wipe the exterior regularly as you clean the washing machine. Please pay special attention to buttons and knobs, which can collect dust and affect their normal operation. 
  • Scrub the detergent and bleach dispenser. The detergent and bleach dispensers should also be scrubbed regularly. Just because you put the detergent in it doesn’t mean it’s clean. Make sure there is no residue or buildup in each dispenser. 
  • Clean the washing machine drum. Occasional cleaning of the washing machine drum will remove mineral deposits and detergent residues built up over time. You can buy washing machine cleaners from the store and have them run on an empty washing machine cycle. If you’re looking for a cleaner alternative, try a mixture of vinegar, baking soda, and water. 
  1. Keep the machine level

As with the maintenance of the dryer, make sure the washing machine level is balance. If your machine is not balanced, adjust the feet so that the machine is completely level. 

Another way to keep the washing machine balanced is to avoid overloading it. In wet, congested conditions, the rotation cycle shakes the machine so hard that it begins to move and flatten. 

 Invest in a smart thermostat. Smart thermostats can be linked to mobile devices like your smartphone, making it easy to adjust your thermostat for energy savings when your home is empty. You can also readjust the temperature before returning home so that your rooms are comfortable when you arrive. 

Maintenance of garage doors 

The importance of your garage door cannot be overemphasized. It plays an important role in the security of your house. It also part of the visual appeal of the house’s exterior. The garage door is so big that everyone outside can see it.  

For this reason, taking proper maintenance of your garage door is non-negotiable. 

Read the tips below to understand how to maintain your garage door. 

General tips on how to maintain the garage doors 

Remember these garage door maintenance tips and use them as part of your daily work to make sure your garage door is always safe and in good working order: 

After closing the garage door, carefully inspect the inside. Inspect each cable, spring, pulley, and roller for signs of damage or excessive wear. If you find faulty parts, please contact a professional immediately. Worn components can cause serious garage door safety problems. 

Listen carefully as you open and close the garage door.  

Some problems are difficult to spot but you can hear the easily. When you hear new noises like new moans or scratches, it’s time to inspect the door thoroughly. 

 Check to see if the hardware is loose.  

Garage doors have moving parts. This movement can cause vibrations. Over time, vibration can lead to ringing and loose screws. You can repair this problems with common tools. 

Lubricate the chains, springs, rollers, and other moving parts of the garage door.  

Perform this process at least once a year as part of your regular garage door maintenance. Check the manufacturer’s documentation to know the type of lubricant that is best for your equipment. 

Examine the door for visual damage.  

Check the exterior of the door for scratches, watermarks, rust, and other unsightly problems. Many cosmetic problems can be solved with a little sanding and painting. 


Replace the weather seal if it is cracked or damaged. 

Make sure the garage door is properly balanced. To do this, pull the release handle to release the automatic garage door opener and then manually open the door. After opening the door, stop halfway to see if the door stays in place by itself. If it moves, your counterweight can lose its balance, leading to premature wear on the automatic bottle opener motor.  

If the door itself is damaged, you should replace the garage door.  

A properly maintained garage door can last for years, but a sloppy door will only cause problems. Sometimes the best way to enjoy the garage door is to change it completely. 

Automatic maintenance of garage doors 

Besides knowing how to maintain a garage door, it is better to know how to maintain a garage door opener system. Keep the following tips in mind about automatic garage doors: 

Test the mechanical reverse safety function. 

The garage door has two reverse security features to ensure that the garage door cannot be closed to anyone. If resistance is felt when closing, the mechanical safety function reverses the rear door cover’s opening. To test this function, place a piece of wood where the door is closed and then press the button to close the door. When the door hits the wood, it should open backward. If not, you should ask professionals to resolve this security risk. 

Test the sensor of the door 

The second reverse security function of the automatic garage is the photoelectric sensor system. To test the sensor, do a project between them when the door is closed. If the door continues to close, ask a professional to resolve this potentially dangerous problem. 

Change the restriction settings.  

If you find that the door is not properly closed, you can change the door opener’s limit set. This usually involves pressing a series of buttons on the main unit of the garage door opener. Specific instructions for setting the closing limit on the break contact can be found in the operating instructions. 

Replace the remote battery.  

Test and replace the batteries in the remote control regularly. 

Garbage disposal maintenance tips 

Reducing the solid waste and trash can help keep the kitchen smell fresh and clean. 

With little daily maintenance and repair, your garbage disposal will serve you for many years. Please follow these garbage disposal and maintenance tips to keep your kitchen appliances in good conditions. 

  1. Perform routine maintenance

Regular waste disposal and maintenance include regular sharpening of the blades, descaling, and cleaning the devices. These tasks are very easy! 

You can clean and sharpen the blade by dropping a few ice cubes down the drain, grinding it, and rinsing off the waste with cold water. This can also help prevent buildup. For further cleaning and descaling, pour a cup of vinegar, let it stand for about an hour, and then rinse it off with hot water. Do not use harsh chemicals to clean the disposal, as these can damage critical components. You only need to do this once a year. 

  1. Use plenty of cold water

Introduce cold water while maintaining your garbage disposal. Before starting disposal, turn on the water first and then press and hold the water for a few seconds after the disposal is complete. This helps the particles to flow easily through the pipe. Avoid using hot water when operating the disposal device, as this may cause grease to peel off and cover the drain. 

  1. Do not overfill the disposal

Throwing too much trash in the garbage disposal at one time can block the garbage disposal and put a lot of pressure on the blades and motors. If you want so many garbage to dispose at once, patiently put the items one after the other 

  1. Carry out garbage disposal regularly

This seems like an unusual technique for garbage disposal maintenance, but please remember to use it frequently. Do not let garbage accumulate in the garbage that causes an unpleasant smell. Also, residues in the detergent soap can lead to buildup. Regular use of waste disposal should help remove excess. 

  1. Flush your landfill

A common way to maintain garbage disposal is to flush the garbage. Put a stopper on the sewer and fill the sink with cold water. When it is full, pull the stopper out and drain the water. This can help loosen stubborn particles that can cause clogging in the disposal. 

  1. Carefully fix blockages and jams

Don’t ever put your hands in the disposal. If something gets stuck on the blade, please switch off the garbage disposal and remove it using the manufacturer’s tool or the long wooden spoon handle. You may need to press the reset button. For more information on removing unwanted items from the disposal, see your user guide. 

If there are log logs, keep in mind that they usually appear below the disposal area. Once you are comfortable repairing the drainpipe, try disassembling the drain pipe under the sink to see if you can find and remove the clog. The drain pipe is usually hand tightened and does not usually require a tool to loosen it. There may be a large amount of water or other liquid in the system because of the clog. Remove it using a bucket and some rags. 

  1. Familiarize yourself with the disposal

Familiarize yourself with things that the disposal can grind safely. Your user guide contains detailed information about a specific model. However, here are some general guidelines for garbage disposal and maintenance: 

  • Potato peel and fibrous foods like celery, onions, eggshells, corn peel, banana peel, and asparagus can clog your drains and waste. So it’s best to put them in the trash can or compost. 
  • The bones can damage the blade. You can put fine bones in the trash can, but only put larger bones in the trash can. 
  • Cut hard seeds cut into small pieces and not crushed. These residues can get stuck in different parts of the garbage disposal and cause jams. 
  • Do not throw coffee grounds into the disposal. These can build up in the pipeline and cause blockages. 
  • Do not pour cooking oil or fat down the drain. The grease solidifies and clogs the pipes. 

Always use cold water before, during, and after disposal. The flow of water helps flush food debris down the sewer.  

If your garbage disposal stops working 

As with every appliance, if your waste disposal system stopped working and is not caused by blockage, check the reset button. You can also check to see if there is no power outage, blown fuses or tripped circuit breaker in your house. If you still can’t figure out the problem, you need to call a professional or buy a new garbage disposal. 

Tips for maintaining the heater 

In winter, heating maintenance is on everyone’s lips. Here are powerful tips for maintaining the heater: 

  • Do a little preventative maintenance to avoid problems. Every year, service your heating system to ensure safety and efficiency. 
  • Use a clean filter to keep the air clean. Replace the filter periodically according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. 
  • Clean pipes and ventilation slots. To improve the system’s efficiency and longevity and purify the air in the home, please clean the duct system professionally, especially if you see dirt, insects, and other obstacles. 

Maintenance of the heating system 

Top maintenance tips for heating systems 

When the cold season arrives, one of the most essential item in your house is the heater.  

The annual maintenance of your furnace by professionals helps to improve efficiency and safety. If you arrange for regular air conditioning and heating system maintenance before the onset of winter, you can be sure that you will have a warm and comfortable home in cold weather.  

Many homeowners keep the heating system in good condition themselves without calling a professional. Regular maintenance makes your home comfortable, the heating system works safely and efficiently, and maintenance costs are reduced. Read our top heating system maintenance tips to maintain your heater. 

Check the thermostat 

Checking the thermostat is a relatively simple maintenance step for the heating system that you can do yourself. Set the thermostat to a few degrees higher than the current room temperature. If your heating system does not start at all, there may be a problem with the thermostat. 

When the heater turns on, let it run for a few minutes. If it stays open and blows continuously, this is a good sign. However, if it shuts down very quickly, there may be a problem with the thermostat that requires further professional evaluation. 

Clean the ducts 

You don’t need to clean the heating system duct frequently, but doing so should be part of heating system maintenance to prevent allergens and dust from building up in the duct. 

If you find that the house is getting dustier or someone in the house is allergic when you use the heater, clean the ducts. If symptoms worsen with the heater on, the pipes may need cleaning more frequently. 

Brush the inside of the ducts to remove any debris and dust, then vacuum it up. Please be thorough – if you leave scattered dust and dirt behind, it will be blown out the next time the heater is switched on. 

Clean the register and grille 

This is a relatively simple maintenance task for the heating system. When you need to pick up a tall grille and cash register on a wall or ceiling, a vacuum wand can be a useful tool. You can also wipe it with a towel or damp cloth. 

Clean the fan 

The convection heater heats the air in the heating unit and then blows it into the entire house. The poor performance of the fan can have a direct impact on the operating condition of the heater. As part of maintaining the heating system, you must periodically clean the fan. 

The fan in the convection furnace is usually located behind the moving plate. You may need to unscrew or slide the plate to use the blower. Vacuum and clean all areas of the fan. Finally, wipe the fan with a damp cloth. For more information on cleaning the fan, see the instruction manual. 

Change your filter 

The filter prevents dirt and dust from entering your furnace.  

You should change the filter on the furnace frequently, according to the manufacturer’s recommendation. Take a box of filters with you and write the date of installation on the side of the filter for regular replacement. If you find more dust or smoke than usual, replacing the filter can resolve these issues. 

Troubleshooting the heating system 

If your heating system has a problem (e.g., any system or device), first check that the fuse has blown, that the circuit breaker has tripped, and that there is proper power. 

Troubleshooting a noisy or hot refrigerator compressor

All refrigerators make noises during normal operation. We all know the humming of the refrigerator compressor or the refrigerator’s sound when the engine is turned on to slightly cool the interior. In some ways, this is comforting as you know your refrigerator is doing what it should, and your food is cool and fresh. When there is a problem, there will be more annoying noise that may be related to the compressor. Most people don’t know how to mute a loud refrigerator compressor, but we’re going to share some helpful ideas.

If you want to deal with the refrigerator compressor’s noise, problems arise because the cooling process will not be possible if one of the components fails.

A common problem with the refrigerator compressor 

When something goes wrong, the refrigerator compressor can make one of several common noises. It can get hot too, but most of all, know that there is a problem due to noise or the refrigerator has stopped cooling. Common problems are: 

  • Defective compressor 
  • Defective relay switch 
  • Wires disconnection 
  • The refrigerator is too close to the wall 

Is your refrigerator compressor hot? 

If your refrigerator compressor is hot, the solution might just be to move it away from the wall a little.  

Troubleshooting large refrigerator compressors 

If your compressor isn’t necessarily hot but is making noise, there are some other troubleshooting steps you might want to consider. For example, if your food isn’t getting cold and you think it’s related to the refrigerator compressor: 

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the power source.
  2. Pull it away from the wall. Otherwise, please leave enough space to pull the compressor back on the back.
  3. Pull out the screws on the side plate of the compressor.
  4. Remove the internal relay switch.
  5. Shake the relay switch.
  6. If you hear a click, it may need to be replaced.
  7. Otherwise, you may need a new compressor.

If shaking the relay switch makes you rattle or make other noise like a light bulb, buy another one and you won’t have any more problems. However, if the problem is with the compressor itself, you may need to seek professional help. 

 How do I mute the refrigerator compressor?  

Usually, the damaged compressor needs to be replaced. It would be best if you call a professional to handle this job as it involves installing parts that can handle gas and pressure. As mentioned above, when one of the other cooling system components is not working properly. So you need to take care of it as soon as possible. If you are unsure what to do in addition to the normal hum, get professional help on any other type of refrigerator compressor noise. 


Fridge Not Cooling 

5 Common Fridge Problems and Possible Solutions 

What can cause the refrigerator to stop getting cold? 

Here are five common situations that can cause the refrigerator not to work properly and how to fix them.  



Problem Likely Cause Solution 
Fridge not cooling Somebody accidentally reset the thermostat. 

The thermostat no longer works. 

Something is blocking the ventilation openings on the back of the device. 

The coils is blocked by dirt. 

Something is stuck in the condenser fan. 

Set the thermostat or order a thermostat that can be installed by yourself.  

Check the internal health of the refrigerator to see if anything is blocking the air vents. If so, move the materials to another location.  

If dirt clogs the coil, vacuum the area with a vacuum and clean the coil with a cloth. If, for some reason, the fan cannot spin, remove it. Additionally, you may need to call a professional to do some research. 


Refrigerator is making strange noises 


Something is blocking the condenser fan. 

The evaporator fan is faulty. 

The circulation fan no longer works. 


In general, the squeak or squeak is usually the sound reported by consumers, including a fan. Whichever fan is failing, you may need to access it to see if the fan blades are spinning normally. If not, all you may need to do is remove the residue. If that doesn’t help, you may need to call a professional. 


Fridge is leaking water The refrigerator may not be level. 

The drain pipe is blocked. 

The water supply line is frozen 

Faulty water supply line. 

The shut-off valve is blocked. 


Except for the defective water supply line, all other problems can be solved without consulting a professional. Check that the refrigerator is level and find the drain hose, water supply, and shut-off valve. You need to consult the user manual to resolve this issue. If you don’t have this handy tool, you should search the refrigerator model online to find an online copy of the manual. If necessary, remove all residues or soften the water supply line. 
Ice in my fridge, not in the freezer 


The door pivot may be loose. 

Somebody has left the door for a long time 

The door seal is defective. 


Unplug the refrigerator and let the ice melt.  

When the refrigerator thaws, tighten the door hinges to see if they work.  

Check the door seal to see if any holes, punctures, or tears can allow hot air to get inside the unit. 

If your door is closed, please make sure that it is still working so that the door does not stay open for long.  

If these steps do not work when you reconnect the refrigerator, please contact a professional. 

Refrigerator is freezing food. 


Thermostat is set to a temperature that is too cold. 

Some of your foods are too close to the coil. 

Thermostat has stopped working. 

Thermostat is not working properly. 

Damper is damaged. 

Main control panel is not working properly. 


If you set the thermostat too low, turn it up to solve the problem. The same applies to remove food from the coil. However, if the thermostat or main control panel is not working, you should call a technician to check the situation as these conditions can be difficult to repair. 



Signs it may be time to replace your refrigerators 

We rely on refrigerators to keep food fresh. If there is a problem with the refrigerator, especially if we are not immediately aware of it, the consequences can be major. Not only may you have the option to replace all of the food, but you may run out of space to store perishable food until the problem is resolved. It is best to know how long the refrigerator will last. So as your fridge gets old, you can come up with a plan if you need to make changes. Here is a brief information that relates to when your fridge needs to be replaced. 



How long does the fridge last on average? 

The estimated range is based on how long the refrigerator can be used. Some sources say ten years while others say 25 years. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, refrigerators can be used for about 12 years. At this point, it may need to be replaced. If your refrigerator is not energy efficient, you might want to replace it before it stops working. 

Warning signs that the refrigerator is about to die 

The best way to avoid problems with a refrigerator breakdown is to be smart. If you experience any of these problems with your old refrigerator, instead of spending your money, it’s better to replace it. First, read the maintenance and repair tips for these refrigerators.  

Here five signs to know that your refrigerator needs a replacement. 

The outside of the refrigerator is getting hotter. 

Unless you are cooking on the stove, no kitchen appliance should ever be hot to the exterior. This is especially true for refrigerators. The engine generates heat when it runs, but it should contain heat, so you don’t notice it. If you suddenly feel the heat outside the device, it could signal that the motor has failed or the coil has stopped working. 

Food goes bad quickly 

If your refrigerator has been in good food condition for a while and suddenly stops doing so, it may indicate that your refrigerator is about to die. 

The Engine keeps running 

The motor in the refrigerator runs from time to time to maintain the correct temperature. After the compartment has reached these temperatures, the engine should only run intermittently and not noisy. If you find that the refrigerator’s motor is suddenly running or making a lot of noise, you may need to call a professional to check the fridge. 

External condensation 

A refrigerator is a system of around five different components that all work together to maintain the cooling compartments’ required temperature. If one or more of them stop working, condensation may form outside the refrigerator. This shouldn’t be happening. It means your refrigerator is dying. Usually, this means the engine is working too hard to keep it cold or hot, so it may be time to replace your fridge. 

In conclusion 

In addition to the warning signs outlined above, you may also need to consider that a refrigerator’s life is more than just the storage capacity of the food. There have been many advances in energy-efficient refrigerators and other appliances in recent years. According to a study by researchers at Cornell University, these new devices use, on average, less energy than older models, meaning they have fewer utility bills and shorter shelf life on food than before. 

When considering the life of the refrigerator, consider all factors. Upon completion, you will find a solution that is right for you and your family.  

Tips on maintaining heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) 

Home should be a place where you feel safe, relaxed, and comfortable. You must control the temperature of your house for comfort ability.  

HVAC systems are an important part of creating a comfortable environment. Learn how to maintain your HVAC system with these simple tips. 

How to take care of your HVAC system 

Your HVAC system is one of the most complex but important systems in your home. In addition to pipes, vents, refrigerant lines, and other temperature regulating devices, it usually includes an oven or central heating and central air conditioning system. Tuning, cleaning, and maintaining these components is critical to the HVAC system’s health and longevity. 

Replace the filter 

You must always remember to replace the on an HVAC system according to the manufacturer’s recommended schedule. 

Suppose you find that the dust in your home increases after using the heating or air conditioning, you may need to replace the filter as soon as possible. If you or the people you live with are sensitive to allergens, you may need to change the filter regularly. 

Power on the system 

Just because you are in a time of year or a location with moderate temperatures, it doesn’t mean that you should completely ignore basic HVAC system maintenance. Indeed, this is the ideal time to turn on the system and make sure there are no issues to be solved. 

Test the thermostat by turning on the heating and air conditioning. Let it run for a while, so you understand how to heat and cool it. If you cannot hear the air with the setting on, you may need a professional to check the HVAC unit signal. When you hear the air open and you have a thermometer, compare the reading to the reading from the thermostat. If there is any inconsistency, you may need to adjust the thermostat. 

Avoid clutter 

To prevent dirt from getting into your air conditioner after the summer, you can purchase a protective cover at your local hardware store. These costs range from $40 to $200. If you want to make your air conditioner cover, you can use household materials like duct tape, garbage bags, or a soft cloth. 

A more proactive HVAC home maintenance technique ensures the area around the air conditioner and external vents is clean. Prune all nearby plants and avoid planting trees near air conditioning and ventilation systems to prevent dirt from building up. 

Keep the ventilation slots open. 

To maintain a healthy HVAC system, you need to ensure that air can flow in and out of the device. Quickly check the inside of the house to make sure your cash register and air vents are not covered with furniture, carpets, or curtains. By maintaining these clean conditions, the air moves efficiently, and the HVAC system works efficiently. 

Even in rooms that are not very useful, make sure that the ventilation slots remain open. Remember that the HVAC system is designed for the entire home. Closing the vents will not allow the system to reach its full potential, affecting energy efficiency. 

Give your HVAC some help 

A simple technique for home HVAC maintenance is to reduce device usage. 

Wear light, breathable clothing in warm months and open the windows when the outside temperature is moderate. If the weather is cool at night, turn off the air conditioning, open the windows, and use a fan. If the weather gets cold, wear warm and comfortable clothing, use the fireplace, and make sure the doors and windows are tight. 

In hot and cold months, consider installing a programmable thermostat. This allows the stove or air conditioner to be set only to run when someone is home. Also, check the doors and windows around the house to ensure the weather strips are in good condition.  

Call a professional 

Certain aspects of HVAC maintenance can only be performed by trained personnel. Make sure the HVAC system is serviced annually. Also, professionally clean the plumbing system and vents, especially if you see dirt, insects, or other blockages. This increases the system’s efficiency and life, not to mention the maintenance of the cabin air filter. 

If your HVAC system has a problem, check to see if the fuse has blown, if the circuit breaker has tripped, and if the power supply is correct before repairing it. If the equipment isn’t working well, your home may not be as comfortable as expected, and your utility bill may be higher than expected. If you take the time to follow these four maintenance tips, your HVAC system can run smoothly. 

Oven maintenance tips 

Caring for the oven should be as easy as the cake that will be made later from it. 

While this isn’t the most complicated piece of equipment in the home, the oven and range are the two most important ones. However, by properly and regularly maintaining these important kitchen components (including filters, fans, burners, and grate), you can avoid expensive maintenance costs in the future and extend the oven’s lifespan. 

It all starts with regular and proper cleaning of the cooking system to prevent dangerous grease from catching on fire and improve operational efficiency. After that, follow the following suggestions for maintaining the oven and range 

Maintaining the electric range/oven 

The following are the basic maintenance tips for your range/oven 

Keep the hood and fan/filter clean.  

They absorb oil and moisture from your kitchen and need to be cleaned regularly. Do not use abrasive pads or powder to clean exposed metal. You can use a properly mixed ammonia and water solution to clean grease and dirt. Before reinstalling, the filter and parts must be dried. 

A filter may need to be replaced, not just cleaned.  

Check the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning / replacing and cleaning the fan. 

Clean the oven according to the instruction of the manufacturer. 

Maintenance of gas range 

  • If gas is present, periodically clean the burner and the ovens with hot water and detergent. 
  • Do not use decontamination powders as they will clog the burner holes. Instead, use hardwire to clear the burner hole. 
  • Never use anything that could get into the burner hole, such as toothpicks. 

If you oven or range stopped working, as with any system or device, before calling HWA for repairs, check whether the fuse has blown, whether the circuit breaker has tripped and whether the power supply is correct.  

Maintenance of the Pumping System 

Regular maintenance of the pumping system is essential to maintain a comfortable and habitable home. 

When it comes to the pipes in your home, drains can clog, and valves and fittings can leak. If you go too long before fixing the problem, the installation problem can seriously damage the house. One difficulty is that the leak is hidden in the wall, or the blockage in the pipe is buried in the yard, and you won’t notice it until the drain is completely blocked. 

Regular maintenance of the piping can prevent major damage. 

Maintenance is critical to avoid major pumping problems. Add a pipeline check to your daily house maintenance list. 

If you follow the following great tips on preventive plumbing maintenance, your home will stay more organized. 

Create a schedule for the plumbing inspection 

Create a schedule to check your pipeline so that it is not lost or forgotten. Plan to conduct inspections approximately every six months. Set a reminder on your phone or write it on the calendar or planner. Include where you keep track of other daily appointments. This way, you ensure that problem areas are discovered within a reasonable time. 

Perform pipeline maintenance inspections 

Take into account all plumbing and drains throughout the home. Check your drainpipes and note where they leave your house and head towards the street where they meet the larger city pipes. Is it possible that trees with roots could interfere with these pipes? If you discover any abnormalities during the inspection, Pay attention to them and contact a professional if necessary. Don’t wait for repairs. 

Regular visual inspections for leaks are important. You can do this by looking under the sink and around the toilet. Look out for signs of moisture and leaks, rust (red or brown), or lime scale (white), which are early signs of difficult brewing. Dealing with small leaks early on prevents more costly repairs in the future. 

Carefully inspect the toilet area to see if the toilet has cracks, especially where it is bolted to the floor. Even a crack in the hairline can mean a leak. Look at the inlet and water lines, as well as the bottom of the water tank. 

Avoid clogging 

While regularly checking the pipeline, keep the equipment clean and good working order to reduce the risk of major problems in the future. One of the most important steps: don’t wash away things that might build up. 

This is particularly difficult in the kitchen. Fat and coffee grounds are the most common causes of blockages in the kitchen drain. Suppose you throw small pieces of food or pour it down the drain while washing, use hot water for a long time to rinse all the food in the line completely. Many pipes are laid almost flat from the house to the street. So it would be best if you made sure the water flows long enough for it all to come out of the pipe completely. 

Remember to be careful with garbage: fibrous foods (like celery) and bones shouldn’t fall off.  

Another technique for pipe maintenance is to use a strainer over each drain pipe. The bathroom drain screen can build up hair that can lead to serious clogging and make it easy for you to throw it away instead of washing it off. 

Clean the drain 

You can clean the sink and tub by simply running hot water and then pouring a small baking soda into each sink and tub. Let the hot water flow for a few minutes, then repeat the above steps. This will help remove grease and debris that has built up in the pipeline over time. You may need to do this several times a year to avoid clogging the pipes and drains. 

Fix drip 

Drip taps, leaky shower nozzles, and poorly operated toilet flush valves should be replaced or repaired. This saves your water bills and prevents water damage in your home. 

Get your plumbing ready for the season 

For those who live in cold regions, this pipe maintenance technique is especially imperative. Remember, pipes carry water, and the water expands when it freezes. This expansion can damage your pipes and your home. Before the freezing weather arrives, turn off all outdoor taps and irrigation valves and clean the outdoor water pipes. Insulate all exposed pipes and all external connectors. 

Call a professional 

Call a professional plumber if you see any small or major leak. You need to stop the leak so as not to damage the entire house seriously. If your head is over, please call the plumber right away. Many offer emergency services to help in such situations. 

Spending a little time on routine and simple maintenance and inspection of pipelines can help you identify potential problems before they turn into disasters. We hope that these piping maintenance tips will keep everything running smoothly in your home. 

Tips for maintaining pools and hot tubs 

A private hot tub or swimming pool is ideal for any family. Not only is it a great place for family fun, relaxation, and entertainment, but it can even increase the resale value of your home. However, the hot tub and pool require additional maintenance. These tasks may seem daunting, but we offers some basic tips on maintaining swimming pools and spas. 

Maintenance of the hot tub at home 

  1. Drain thehot tubwater and replace it 

Hot tubs and family pools are usually smaller than ordinary swimming pools. A smaller size means less space for the water to circulate so that it can stagnate. To avoid stagnant water problems such as annoying mosquitoes and excess algae, drain and replace the hot spring water every 60-90 days. Other signs such as an unpleasant smell or muddy, frothy water also indicate that it is time to freshen up the hot tub water. 

  1. Clean thehot tub

Make sure you clean the inside of the hot tub regularly. Clean it about once a week and do a thorough cleaning every time the water heater is drained. If your hot tub is outdoors, watch out for debris such as broken leaves. 

Don’t forget the outside of the hot tub. When it comes to hot tub maintenance, many people tend to focus more on the inside, and the outside contents are important too! Scrub the shell regularly to keep the spa hygienic. 

  1. Clean the filter

A clean filter can keep the rest of the hot tub in its original operating condition, which is very helpful. When you empty the hot water tank for a thorough cleaning, put the filter in a chemical cleaner. You can regularly remove the filter and quickly rinse it off with a garden hose between these soaks. 

  1. Check the pH level regularly

Don’t forget to check the hot tub’s pH. The appropriate pH will vary. Therefore, please read your user manual to keep the spa contents within the manufacturer’s recommended range. Too high a pH can cause calcium buildup, while too low a pH can cause eye and skin irritation. By adjusting the pH, you can comfortably use the hot tub all year round. 

  1. Check your coverage

Broken or soaked spa kits can contain harmful microorganisms that can pollute your hot spa water. Make sure that the heater’s lid is in good condition and replace it if necessary. Maintaining proper coverage of the hot water tank will also prevent harmful residue from getting into the bathtub, which will keep the water in good condition. 

 Tips for maintaining the swimming pool 

Just like using a hot tub, a personal pool requires regular maintenance. Check out these pool maintenance techniques to keep the pool in good condition. 

  1. Prevent dirt from entering the pool

Unlike a hot tub or spa, your pool only needs to be drained once every few years. This increases the need to ensure that the water is free of debris through regular maintenance. Use five minutes to cleanse the pool water and remove leaves, bugs, and other debris for your pool filter to work effectively. A working pool filter must be used to keep pool water clean and usable. When removing debris, check the area around the pool. Cracked patio tiles and loose stones can fall into the pool or pose a hazard to your friends and family. 

  1. Clean the filter

Pool filters are different, and the cleaning methods are also different. Refer to the instruction manual for specific instructions on cleaning the filter. 

Typically, this task includes turning off pool equipment and emptying the filter basket. You will also need to filter the pipe from time to time. Usually, you can filter by setting the filter to the backwash setting. Please refer to your user manual for more information. 

  1. Maintain the pool’s pH

Maintaining the Pool’s PH is also very essential. In hot weather, you can enjoy the pool for hours. If you ensure the correct pH level, you and your loved ones will be safe while swimming. If the pool’s pH is not balanced, your water can look cloudy, your eyes and skin become inflamed. A properly balanced pool should be clean, odorless, and free from irritation. 

  1. Maintain the water level in the pool

After a long afternoon in the pool, the water level can be below normal. When it drops below half your skimmer opening, it’s time to replace the water. Use a garden hose to fill the pool until the water level rises to at least half the skimmer’s opening. 

How to clean the roof 

Keeping the roof clean and free of debris can save you expensive roof repair costs. Basic roof maintenance is simple – Here are some roof cleaning suggestions: 

  • Bleach, vinegar, various cleaning products, or commercial cleaning services can be used for cleaning 
  • Pay special attention to the shady section of the roof – an ideal place for algae and moss to grow 
  • In the dry season of summer, keep the roof clean and free of dirt and dry rot to reduce the risk of fire 

 Roof Maintenance 

Roof care tips 

While most homeowners can do a certain amount of roof maintenance themselves, many roof maintenance tasks are best performed by experienced, licensed professionals. Home improvement roofers may be unfamiliar with the dangers of climbing ladders and walking around on the roof, and roof repair experts may be more likely to spot signs of problems. 

The first step is verification. Ideally, it should be checked twice a year in the spring and fall. Look for shingles that are missing, cracked, warped, or lost their protective coating. You should also check the roof for signs of rust, moss, lichen, and other vegetation. 

How to clean the roof 

There are many ways to remove moss, which can damage roofing materials. 

  • Remove manually with a long-handled broom or brush 
  • Blasting with an electric washing machine – although doing so can damage the asphalt shingles and lead to further roof repairs 
  • Apply chemical treatment, be sure to choose one specially developed for the roof. Some harsh chemicals can also damage the roofing material. 

You can also see the need for roof maintenance in the house. If you find leaks, mold, or dark spots on the ceiling, it’s time for a thorough roof inspection. Peeling paint near the roofline outside the house is another sign that you may need to fix the roofing material to fix the leak. Solving these problems promptly is key to minimizing damage and costs. 

It is also advisable to check the roof for damage after a severe thunderstorm or hail. If you choose to have a professional inspection in bad weather, please look for a reliable company.  

Maintenance of the trash compactor 

Trash compactors can make trash days easier, especially if you live in a small urban area or want to cut down on the trip to the trash can. Breaking household waste into small squares (about a quarter of its original volume) makes life easier and more space-saving. To ensure this reliable device provides you with years of quality service, it must be properly maintained. Follow the tips below to troubleshoot and maintain your trash compactor to save the time, cost, and inconvenience caused by unnecessary repair calls. 



Tips for the daily care and maintenance of trash compactors 

Avoid trash compactors 

Preventing leaks is as easy as knowing how and what to put in a compactor. Place cans and glass containers flat. Place a brown paper bag or newspaper on top to prevent broken glass from flying up or messy food waste. Only use selected garbage bags that have been specially developed for garbage compactors. If recycling is possible in your area, consider putting glass, plastic, and paper waste in separate recycling bins. 

Prevent garbage smell 

This is a dirty secret of trash compactors: if you don’t clean them diligently, they give off unpleasant odors. Some models have inserted air fresheners, while other models have activated carbon filters that absorb odors. These methods can help, but the best way to get over the stink is to prevent it by clearing the spill as soon as possible and cleaning the equipment regularly. 

If your trash compactor gives off an unpleasant odor, it may be time to deodorize it. Before each cleaning, sprinkle a small layer of baking soda on the bottom of the compactor before changing the bag. If your compressor has an activated carbon filter, replace it. 

How to clean a trash compactor 

The trash compactor gets dirty, so you should clean the trash compactor regularly. Pull the plug out of the socket and remove the bag. Watch out for broken glass and gloves. You may want to use an antibacterial compactor cleaner. Before changing, spray the bag thoroughly and dry it. 


Do not place dangerous objects in the compressor 

Space for the garbage compactor is limited. Certain things must not be put inside, especially poisonous, explosive, or flammable objects that can cause danger. Please dispose of paint thinner, old paint cans, and rags soaked in petrol or engine oil separately. Be careful of disposing of aerosol cans (cheese cans and whipped cream can pass through), but don’t include cans for explosive chemicals. 

Troubleshooting capabilities of Garbage Compactor 

We hope your compactor can run without problems for many years. However, if a problem occurs and the compactor is not working properly, please try the following troubleshooting tips for the compactor and seek professional help. Be sure to check your user manual and follow all safety precautions. 

Problem Solution 
The compressor cannot start. Check the electrical panel and see if the circuit has tripped before you find it is completely damaged. 

Check that the drawer is completely closed. If the door is opened, the compactor will not work. 

Wait a few minutes and try again, especially if you recently compressed the load. 

The compressor stopped working. 


If the trash compactor stops while working, it may be caused by an unbalanced load that can trigger the debugging function. Reset the device according to the operating instructions. Make sure you know the items that can be put in the trash compactor and distribute them evenly. 


The compressor rattles 


Components in a garbage compactor can loosen over time, especially due to vibration caused by the engine. Periodically check the drawer wheels and tighten any loose parts. Tighten any loose screws on the front door with a screwdriver or tighten the wheel/nut assembly with a crescent wrench. 
Drawers are difficult to open and close. 


Switch off the compressor and take the drawer out of the cabinet. 

While wearing protective gloves, look carefully for broken glass or other foreign objects that could block the track. 

Use a dry/wet vacuum to remove any loose residue. 

Clean dirty rails and rollers with detergent or degreaser, inspect for damaged parts and add lubricant if necessary. 

Check and clean the rails and rollers regularly for dust and dirt. 



The drawer is stuck 


To remove stuck objects (e.g., aluminum cans), turn off the compactor and hold the drawer with both hands to move it back and forth. If this is unsuccessful, try turning on the device again. If you are having trouble troubleshooting the trash compactor or you do not want to try, contact a qualified professional to investigate and fix the problem. 





Maintenance of the water heater 

The water heater is an important device for regulating the water temperature in the home. Although usually reliable and trouble-free, regular water heater maintenance and inspections are the best way to avoid unnecessary breakdowns (and unnecessary cold showers) and extend the water heater’s life. Read some useful tips on how to maintain your water heater. 

  1. Check the pressure relief valve

The water heater’s pressure relief valve is an important part of safety equipment and should be disconnected during the water heater’s daily maintenance. As the water temperature rises, so does the pressure in the water tank. The pressure is automatically released through the valve. Without this safety function, too much pressure can build up in the water heater’s water tank, ultimately leading to breakage. To avoid this hazard, check the pressure valve every six months and follow these simple steps: 

  • Turn off the power supply and the inlet valve. 
  • Place the bucket under the pressure release valve. 
  • Manually open the valve to allow water to drain. 
  • Release the valve. 

When the push button is closed, it should work normally. If it doesn’t or leaks, it’s time to call a professional for a replacement. 

  1. Flush the water heater

Over time, sediment will settle down at the water heater tank bottom. This could be dirt in your well or water pipe, or it could be calcium carbonate. Hot water converts the minerals in tap water to solid form, settling and building up at the tank bottom over time. 

These build-ups can damage your water heater. The sediment layer can act as an insulating layer between the heating unit and the water, making your machine work harder and take longer to raise the water temperature. Debris can also add harmful corrosives to the water and damage equipment, leading to inadvertent repairs. Draining the water annually will help prevent these problems. Flushing the water tank is a relatively simple maintenance task for the water heater: 

  1. Close the inlet valve and turn off the electric heater. For water heaters operated with natural gas, please lower the temperature to “vacation mode.”
  2. Connect the hose to the drain valve and place the other end of the hose outside or in a large bathtub or bucket. Be careful – the drained water will get very hot.
  3. Open the drain valve and the pressure relief valve to drain all water. The water can be polluted by accumulated sediment. If you see rusty flakes, it must be a sign of corrosion in the water heater, and it may be time for replacement.
  4. When the water tank is empty, turn the water supply back on for a few seconds to flush the water tank with clean water. You may need to do thisa few times before the water drains, which indicates that the water tank has been properly rinsed.
  5. When finished, close the drain valve and the pressure relief valve and open the water supply device to refill the water tank.

Make sure the water heater is set to no more than 120 degrees. Too much hot water accelerates the build-up of deposits and, of course, increases burn out risk. 

  1. Check the anode rod

When servicing the water heater, make sure you check the anode rod. The enamel coating in the water heater prevents the steel water heater from rusting. However, after years of heating with hot water, an environment is created in which corrosives and bacteria thrive and wear tooth enamel. The anode rod is a tube made of aluminum, magnesium, or zinc that can absorb corrosive water elements. The acidic agent does not “attack” the tooth enamel, but rather corrodes the anode rod. 

Eventually, the anode rod will degrade, so it is very essential to inspect it every three years. If you use a water softener, you may need to check the anode bars more often. Please consult your user manual. To check the anode rod on the water heater: 

  1. Turn off the power and water inlet. If you have a natural gas system, lower the temperature to “vacation mode.”
  2. Connect the hose and drain approximately 5 gallons of water from the water tank.
  3. Follow your model’s instructions to remove and inspect the anode rod. On most water heaters, you’ll see a hexagonal club head protruding from the top.

If the corrosion is severe or your pipeline is completely covered in minerals, it’s time to replace it. Fortunately, the cost of these pipelines is not high. If the ceiling gap is small, get a foldable anode rod. 

  1. Adjust the temperature setting

In general, the water heater temperature should be set to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. The steps for setting the water heater differ depending on the kind of water heater. Please refer to your user manual for instructions. 

For gas water heaters, setting the temperature is generally as easy as turning the temperature knob. Maintaining electric water heaters can be a little trickier. You may need to open a control panel to access two different thermostats. You may need a flat-bladed screwdriver to adjust the temperature. Insert a screwdriver into the adjustment knob and turn it to set the temperature. 

  1. Insulate storage tanks and pipes

This water heater repair technique is mainly applicable to old water heaters. Newer water heaters are usually insulated (check the manual to make sure it is correct). If you’re using an older water heater, you can reduce the workload by insulating the tank and pipes to minimize heat loss. Fiberglass jackets suitable for placement around the water heater can be found online and at hardware stores. 

  1. Use vacation mode

Vacation mode is a setting on most gas water heaters that can heat the water to a level where it will not freeze. If you leave the house for a long time, please do not forget to put the water heater in vacation mode. If no one uses hot water, the water heater does not need to be at full capacity. 

Tankless water heater 

Compared to traditional cousins, tankless water heaters can save a lot of energy. Traditional water heaters have to constantly heat the water in the water tank to ensure that hot water is available when needed. Models without a water tank can provide hot water if required. 

Tankless water heaters are usually more expensive to buy and install than traditional versions. However, long-term savings can make the initial investment a wise choice. Based on your daily water consumption, the EPA estimates that tankless water heaters are 34% more efficient than storage water heaters. Heating and warming water requires less energy, which translates into lower energy costs. 

The service life of tankless water heaters is also longer than that of conventional water heaters. The water heater’s life span is more than 20 years, and the typical life of the water heater is 10-15 years. 

Tankless water heater fuel options include electricity, natural gas, and propane. A good plumbing contractor can help you calculate potential savings and payback times and recommend the best one for your house. 

High Efficiency washing machine 

If you need a new washing machine, please consider the high performance (HE) model. Compared to conventional top-loading stirrer washing machines, they are more energy-efficient and use less water. Regardless of whether it is a front loader or a top loader, the water consumption of HE machines is 33% to 80% lower than that of mixers. Since much less water has to be heated, energy can also be saved. The HE washer may only use 20% of the energy that the traditional blender uses. 

HE machines’ initial cost is usually higher but can save water and electricity bills in the long run. 

Why is my dishwasher leaking? Five possible causes 

Why is the dishwasher leaking? Why does the dishwasher leak when it’s not running? 

As with any other electrical appliance, dishwashers sometimes don’t work properly.  

The following are the common cause of dishwasher leaks and potential repairs. 

The Door 

The first place where leaks are found in the dishwasher is at the door. It’s the easiest component to analyze, and it opens and regularly closes so it’s easy for it to leak. Grasp the latch on the door to see if it is loose. If so, use a screwdriver to tighten them. As you do this, feel the area to see if there is any moisture near the latch, as this may indicate that the latch is slightly loose and needs to be tightened. 

Dishwasher alignment 

If you’ve recently moved the dishwasher for some reason and it started leaking, there may be an alignment problem. You need to level the dishwasher because if the dishwasher is not balanced, water can build up. The water will start to leak, and you will notice it on the bottom at some point. The first step should be to find a level to see if the dishwasher is properly arranged. If not, it could be due to a leak in the dishwasher. 

You can adjust the height of each corner of the dishwasher with a wrench as the screws can be turned to start the process. Depending on your model, you may need to remove the step plate to access these adjustable screws. Hold it straight and adjust the device so that it is straight. When you’re done, check to see if the leak persists. If not, your problem is likely resolved. 

Tips for maintaining the bath hub and shower 

Use these proven cleaning techniques to clean your bath hub and shower. 

Lighten with lemon juice. 

If the bathtub or shower is discolored, a lemon or two and lots of baking soda can solve the problem. Halve the lemon, sprinkle the baking powder on the flat side, and use half of the lemon as a scrubber. Lemon juice is a natural bleaching agent, while baking soda is a mild abrasive that gently removes dirt and stains, especially on the fiberglass’s surface. 

Blow up the shower door foam with two common ingredients 

Heat a bowl of vinegar in the microwave, pour it into a heavy-duty spray bottle, and add half a cup of dish soap. Vortex combined. (Vinegar is easier to combine with soap when it’s warm.) 

Apply this simple solution to the moldy grout filler 

The bathroom’s humid area is a good place for mold and mildew to spread, especially when caulking. If your basic water and bleach spray solution doesn’t leave a bright white slurry, it’s time to try a stronger bleach solution. In a container, mix the bleach and baking soda into a batter and apply the solution to the mortar with an old brush. Just make sure the room is well ventilated! Cover the glued surface with plastic wrap and wait. Baking soda can hold the bleach in place, while plastic can prevent the bleach from drying out (and stopping the bleaching). After 30 minutes, remove the plastic wrap and rinse it off. 

Unlock the showerhead 

Over time, the showerhead can build up minerals and debris, clog the nozzle, and slow the flow of water. The good news is that you can resolve this issue with common household vinegar. Just take the showerhead out of the pipe and place it in the smallest container that can be placed. Add enough vinegar to cover the showerhead and let it soak for at least one hour – better overnight. 

After soaking the shower nozzle, use a toothbrush to scrub the nozzle well. This will remove any remaining dirt or mineral deposits. Rinse inside with water and outside, then carefully check whether the nozzle is still clogged. In this case, use a toothpick to remove any remaining residue before reattaching the showerhead. 

Only a few simple household materials and some elbow grease are required to brighten your bath hub and shower. 


The dishwasher is equipped with a bathtub. The bathtub is a sink at the bottom of each unit that allows water to drain off during the cycle. Over time, these tubs can wear out due to all of the soap’s water and chemicals. If the corrosion level is low in the bathtub, it can leak, and the water doesn’t need a large opening to escape. If you find that your bathtub is likely to leak, the leak can start under the unit. 

If this is your problem, you can examine your model to see if the bathtub can be replaced or if the device should be replaced. You may need to seek professional help with this decision as knowing how to fix a leaky dishwasher is not the same as knowing when to make changes. 


Every dishwasher has several valves that allow water to be introduced and removed after a cycle is complete. These valves must be connected to a water source. One reason the dishwasher may not work could be a problem with one or more valves. Fortunately, this is usually an easy solution as you need to buy and install replacement parts or kits. 

Before doing this: 

  1. Check the connection of each hose and valve. 
  1. If you find these hoses are too old, consider replacing them. 
  1. If you find loose connections, decide whether to tighten them or order and install replacement parts. 


Usually, people wash the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher. If the dishes are heavily stained, they usually have to be scrubbed with normal detergent before placing them on the dish rack. This can cause problems depending on the amount of detergent used and the type of dishwasher. 

If the dishwasher drips more than a few detergent drops while it is in operation, it will foam and expand. This expansion can cause the compartment to overfill, which can lead to leaks. Typically, this type of leakage occurs through the seal, as it is the most flexible component in the dishwasher. Do not use anything other than detergent in the dishwasher.  


Why doesn’t my dishwasher drain? Five possible causes and solutions 

Turning on the dishwasher to empty it, only to realize there is a smelly sink water underneath, you will feel bad. Wont you?  

Why doesn’t the dishwasher drain? Did it just happen by chance? You run the dishwasher again, and it turns out that there is still water on the bottom. 

The question now is how to fix a dishwasher that has not been drained. Should you call the plumber right away? The answer depends on what you come up with.  

Before you call, remove the water from the dishwasher so you can see all of the components. Check out five common reasons why there might be water on the bottom of a dishwasher. 

Causes   Solutions 
Clogs in the drain hose 1. Place a towel under the front panel to prevent water from spilling on the floor when the hose is removed. 

2. Pull out the power plug to avoid electric shock. 

3. Remove the front panel. 

4. Remove the hose from the device and check for dirt. 

5. If it is blocked, remove the residue and reconnect the hose. 

6. If there are kinks, you may need to replace them because you cannot remove them. 

7. If this is not the first time you have encountered a problem with the drain hose, it may be time to replace it as there is no reason to continue taking this risk. 



The drain basket is full and not empty Remove the water and check if the drainage basket is clogged. If so, remove the residue and see if the remaining water drains off. 

If the water still doesn’t move, you need to take the next step and grab the plunger. Sometimes this can cause food stuck deep in openings that you may not be able to reach to drain away as smaller pieces melt together after passing through the basket. If you still can’t get rid of the standing water, you may need to call a professional. 

Wrong detergent can clog the machine. Empty the dish water and then rinse it out again with suitable soap. If it was wrong at first, the dishwasher should operate normally. 
You forget to dispose the food that builds up in the drain Carry out disposal. This may be all you need to get things back on track. 


The dishwasher filter  These filters need to be cleaned regularly and sometimes replaced. 

If you’ve checked everything else but you’re still unsure why the dishwasher hasn’t empty, pull out the filter, clean it, and run it again. If this doesn’t help, replace the filter. If there is still water at the bottom of the dishwasher, you may need to contact a professional. 



Why isn’t my dishwasher drying? Five questions to consider 

When the dishwasher turns on after a cycle of operation, you become frustrated when you find out that the dishwasher is still wet. Of course, you might be wondering why the dishwasher doesn’t dry out. Now is the time to investigate this problem and see what could happen. 

Here are five ideas to consider as you figure out why dishwashers won’t dry. 

The Heating Element 

The heating element’s main function on the dishwasher is to increase the water temperature during the dishwashing process. The sink at the bottom of the appliance should also be heated so that the dishes can be washed. 

Suppose the dishwasher doesn’t dry your dishes. At the end of the cycle, check to see if the appliance inside gets hot. If not, please check your heating element. It’s usually a long, horseshoe-shaped wire with plugs on both ends located on the back of the dishwasher. If it is damaged or the connection is loose, the heating element may be defective. 

High limit thermostat 

If the heating element is found to be installed correctly and not damaged, the next part to check is the high limit thermostat. The high-limit thermostat is also on the back near the top of the dishwasher. It has a cylindrical shape with brackets for installation on both sides. Its function is to turn off the heating element when the water reaches a certain temperature, which varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. This is necessary to prevent the dishwasher from overheating. 

Failure of the high limit thermostat can cause the dishwasher to run at a lower temperature as the heating element turns off too quickly in one cycle. Therefore, the heating element’s insufficient function due to a malfunction of the thermostat can be the reason why your dishes are not dry. The only effective way to test the high limit thermostat is by using a multi-meter. Use this option to determine if the current is flowing through the part. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to replace it. If it does, then you need to keep searching for the possible cause of the damp dish. 

Fan and Vent 

When the vent is opened, and the fan starts running, another important step in drying the dishes occurs. The fan blows hot air and moisture from the dishwasher through the ventilation slots and makes the dishes dry. If any of these components fail, your dishes won’t dry out in the dishwasher. 

These parts can be difficult to check. After stopping the wash cycle, you may need to check the dishwasher to see if the vents, usually located on the machine’s front, are open, and steam is coming out. If not, there may be a ventilation problem. If the dishwasher is turned off after a wash cycle, but the vents are open, the fan may not work properly. Fortunately, if you find that either or both of these parts are causing the dishes to not dry, you can luckily find and install replacement parts. 

Detergent dispenser 

If the detergent dispenser is defective or otherwise damaged, it may be because the dishes are not being dried. While the detergent does not seem to have anything to do with the dishes’ dryness, the truth is that everything has to run right for the dishwasher to work properly. 

If the detergent dispenser leaks or does not open within a cycle, the appliance may not complete all the steps in the dishwashing process before shutting down. This means that your dishes won’t dry out. If this is the problem, it should be easy to locate and replace the damaged detergent dispenser. 

This is how to stack your dishes. 

The reason your dishes haven’t dried in the dishwasher may be because your dishes are stacked. You need to leave some space between the plates to allow the dry fan to blow hot air over the entire surface. If you don’t leave enough space between the bowls, air may not reach certain surfaces, and moisture may become trapped. If you tend to load the dishwasher with dishes, try running a cycle with fewer items to see if it works. 

If you are not satisfied with performing any of these maintenance steps, you can always call a professional.  

Why does my dishwasher smell? Five possible reasons 

You may be wondering why your dishwasher smells so bad. 

Once you know the answers to these questions, you can begin solving the problem. 

Below are five possible causes of dishwasher odor and some ideas on how to remove the odor. 

  1. Clogged food traps

A common cause of a bad smell in the dishwasher is the appearance of rotten old food somewhere in the appliance. If the dishwasher smells, the first thing to do is check the food collector at the bottom of the bathtub. There is a hole in there to capture the drain from the cleaning cycle. After the dishwasher is dry, pull out the lower basket to see if there is an old food collection tank in the basket. 

If you can’t see the food on the surface, pull the basket out as far as you can, then continue digging into the opening to see if there’s anything there. Be careful with this – if you have broken glass in your dishwasher, there may be dirt in the food collector. 

In some cases, you can extend the food trap’s opening to remove any waste that may be generated. Either way, removing old foods from the dishwasher should help reduce or eliminate unpleasant odors. 

  1. The drain hose is damaged

If there is a problem with the drain hose, it could cause an odor in the dishwasher. 

If possible, pull the dishwasher away from the wall and look for bends, kinks, or other problems so that material can easily flow through the hose. Try to straighten the hose to make sure the material can get smoothly from one end to the other. If your drainpipe is too damaged to be straightened, you may need to replace the parts yourself or ask a professional for repair. 

  1. Poorly placed drain hose

Even if your drainpipe isn’t kinked or clogged with food waste, it could cause the dishwasher odor. If the drain hose falls from the back of the unit and runs across the floor and then moves up towards the sink, gravity may be against you. 

If the drain hose is slack, try repositioning the hose. Ideally, the drain hose extends from the dishwasher into the sink so that gravity can do most of the work. Unless dirty water and food debris have to be handled “uphill,” they are less likely to get stuck and create an unpleasant odor in the hose. 

  1. Your Disposal

After all, the cause of the dishwasher odor might have nothing to do with the dishwasher. As mentioned above, the drain hose connects your equipment to the garbage disposal in the sink. If food is trapped in your disposal, clogged food can prevent the dishwasher from running through properly. 

Dispose your trash thoroughly and make sure there is no food left in it. If there is more food to process or not start normally, please use an Allen key to grind the enclosed food manually. If the problem is still not resolved, it may be time to repair or replace your disposal device. When you clear the clog, run the dishwasher again to see if there is an odor. 

If you’ve gone through all of these steps but are still unsure how to remove the odor from the dishwasher, you may need to consult a service technician. 

Disinfecting and Keeping Your Kitchen Sink Clean 

The sink is often seen as a symbol of cleanliness. After all, this is where you do most of your washing and cleaning jobs. Look around all kitchen sinks, and you will most likely find cleaning clips like soap, sponges, towels, and brushes. With that in mind, you’d be surprised to find that the kitchen sink is usually one of the dirtiest things in some homes. 

The combination of water, leftover food, and other wastes create an important breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria. For this reason, you must know how to clean the kitchen sink. Please follow the steps below that describe exactly how to keep your kitchen sink clean. 

We will focus on cleaning ceramic sinks, and stainless steel sinks as these are some of the most common kitchen sink types. 

How to clean the sink without harsh chemicals 

When cleaning the interior of the house, you might not want to use chemical cleaners. Chemical cleaners can produce a strong odor and cause headaches and eye irritation. You will notice these chemical cleaners are hazardous if ingested. Chemical cleaners can be very risky, especially if you have children or pets. 

For these reasons, natural cleaning alternatives have become very popular. They are much less risky to use, can be used in homes, and are very effective at cleaning up. The following explains how to clean the sink without using harsh chemicals. These methods are very effective and can be used to clean ceramic and stainless steel sinks. 

White vinegar 

Without mentioning white vinegar, the guide to cleaning the kitchen sink is incomplete. White vinegar is very good for treating grease, bacteria, and quicklime. 

If you want to sanitize the kitchen sink, vinegar is the best solution too. White vinegar can kill bacteria without any risks similar to chemical cleaners. 

To clean the sink with vinegar, mix a solution of equal parts vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Because of the versatility of vinegar as a cleaning agent, it’s a good idea always to have a spray bottle handy. After you’ve rinsed the sink to remove any residue, spray the sink with the vinegar solution and wipe it dry. 

Don’t forget your tap! Vinegar can break down the lime that can settle around the spout well. To remove lime buildup, dampen a cloth with vinegar and warm water to wipe the faucet clean. 

If you are feeling adventurous, scrub the sink with baking soda before spraying vinegar. Then add vinegar and watch for the foam reaction between baking soda and vinegar. Let the carbonated solution sit for a few minutes, then rinse and dry it. 

Clean with lemon 

Another popular alternative to natural cleaning is cleaning with lemon. The process is very simple. Just take a lemon, cut it in half or into smaller pieces, and scrub the sink with the chopped pieces. Add more salt for more help. Its roughness makes it possible to remove difficult-to-remove particles that stick to the sink. When you’re satisfied, rinse and dry the sink. 

Disinfect the sink with bleach 

Warning: Do not use bleach in the stainless steel sink. Bleach can attack steel and damage the sink. If you have a ceramic sink, check the pipe under the sink. If you have stainless steel pipes, please do not use bleach. 

Vinegar can be a reliable natural disinfectant, but if you’re looking for something a little more powerful, bleach can be the solution. While stainless steel isn’t very safe, bleach can be safe for your ceramic sink. 

There are two main methods that you can use to sanitize the sink with bleach. First, you can cap the drain and fill the sink with warm water and add bleach to create a solution. Remember, you need very little bleach to make a disinfectant. Only a quarter of the bleach can be used per gallon of water. Let the solution sit in the sink for a few minutes, then drain and rinse meticulously. 

Or you can create a solution in a bucket or bowl and use it to wipe the sink down. When handling bleach, remember to wear gloves to protect your hands. After disinfecting, rinse the sink thoroughly to prevent all of the bleach from washing away. 

How to clean the sink drain and garbage disposal 

Now, you know that one of the best ways to clean your drain and garbage disposal is to use the old baking soda and vinegar method. Add equal amounts of baking soda and vinegar to the two drain holes in the sink and let the solution do the rest! After a few minutes, use warm water to rinse the sides of the sink. 

To get rid of the garbage disposal stink, please put the citrus peel scraps in the landfill and run them with cold water. Some experts recommend freezing your citrus peel to make it easier to crack during disposal. 

Maintain the sink in between cleanings. 

In between cleanings, you can help keep the sink in good condition by: 

  • Spray white vinegar on the sink after each use 
  • Dry the sink after each use 
  • Do not leave dishes or other objects in the sink for long 

With regular maintenance and cleaning, the sink shouldn’t stress you. However, it is almost impossible for all your household devices to be in good use after some years of use. That is why we have come up with this booklet to keep your life and home going. 

Chapter Five

Home Maintenance Quick Fixes


Stop procrastination! The common house issues you avoid most of the time are easier to fix than you think. If you are overwhelmed going through the step by step maintenance guide in the previous chapter, this chapter on quick fix guide is for you. After going through this quick fixes chapter, you will be fully equipped with fundamental home equipment problems and how to fix them quickly. 

Problem  Solution 
Water heater 
The unit does not produce hot water. 


Check the pilot light to see if it’s still functioning. If not, follow the tank’s instructions to restart the pilot burner or contact your local gas company to relight it for you free! 

If the unit is electric, the tank itself may have a reset button. Press the reset button. If this still does not solve the problem, please try to flip the dedicated circuit breaker on the control panel as it may have tripped. 


The hot water produced by the water heater is insufficient. 


If the water heater runs out of hot water too quickly, increase the water heater thermostat’s temperature. If the temperature is set to the highest setting, follow the instructions above to flush the water heater. 



The water heater makes a rumble or a clinking noise. 


This can be related to the accumulation of sediments. Maybe all you need to do is to flush the water heater. 

Please follow the steps below to flush the water heater: 

Note: The water in the water heater is very hot. Use caution when flushing the water heater and keep children and pets away from the area. 

1. Connect the garden hose to the drain valve on the bottom of the heater (it looks like a hose bib). Run the garden hose outside or drain it to the nearest drain. 

2. Open the drain valve to allow water to flow through the hose. 

3. When the water starts flowing, close the drain valve and remove the hose. 

4. Turn on the hot water tap in the house and let it run until all bubbles leave the pipe. Then turn it off. 




The toilet doesn’t flush; the handle just moves up and down. 


The flapper chain may have fall off the handle arm. Reconnect the chain.  


The toilet continues to work or flushes by itself. 


Both symptoms is caused by a leaking flapper. This is the round seal at the bottom of the tank that connects to the handle chain. You can easily remove and replace this flapper 

Buying a new baffle from a hardware store costs about $ 2 to $ 5, and replacing it can solve this problem. After replacing the flapper, carefully lower the toilet ball (ball valve) to lower the water tank’s water level. Remove the toilet bowl cleaner so that the water flapper does not block the water tank. 


Slow Drains/Stoppages 

The toilet doesn’t drain well or cannot drain at all. 


Except for the mainline stoppage, you can easily clear all toilet stoppages using a plunger 


The sink, washbasin, shower, or bathtub drains slowly. 


If you have multiple stoppages at home (e.g., toilets, sinks, clotheslines, or a combination of these), this is called “main line” and need a plumber. Please contact our service department for help. 

If your kitchen, sink, shower, or bathtub drain is slow, it can be caused by food, hair, and mud buildup and is easy to fix. Pour in 1 cup of baking powder, salt, and vinegar. Pour the baking soda and salt down the drain and immediately add the vinegar. Leave on for 15-20 minutes. Boil a pot of water while waiting. After 15-20 minutes of boiling water, pour down the hot water to flush the pipe. You may have to do this multiple times to delete the row completely.  



Reset the circuit breaker on the sub or main switchboard. 


Clean the filter. If the filter is dirty, the flow of water into the heater will be restricted. Most heaters have a pressure switch that can only turn the heater when the water flow/pressure is large enough. 




The device has no power. The pool or spa lights do not come on. 


Reset the circuit breaker on the sub or main switchboard. The pool/spa equipment should be in its circuit. There may also be GFI / GFCI sockets on the device. Make sure it is in the reset position. The spa may also have a dedicated reset button. 
The pool/spa is dirty; the filter cannot be cleaned. 



Clean the filter. If the filter is very dirty, the pressure will rise, and the filter will not work properly. The cartridge filter must be cleaned approximately every two months. The D.E. filter must be cleaned two to three times a year. 


The pool pump does not circulate. 


The pump may have stopped circulating because the pool/spa water level is too low. If the water level drops below the center of the skimmer, air can enter the system and not work properly. “Refill” the pump by increasing the water level in the pool/spa, then removing the pump cover and adding a few liters of water to the pump basket. After reinserting the pump cover, open the valve under the pressure gauge on the top filter. Switch on the device and close the valve when the open valve sprays water. The device should refill itself. You can tell the pump is working when the pressure gauge is moving. 


Plumping Pipes 

Water hammer in the pipeline. 



Eliminating the hammer is straightforward! Water hammer is caused by trapped air in the water supply. First, drain the water into your home through the main shut-off valve. Turn on all the taps both hot and cold until all of the water has drained from the pipe. Then, with the tap open, open the water valve again so that all the air can be forced out of the incoming water pipe. Then turn off each tap individually, and the hammer will disappear! If that doesn’t solve the problem, it may be high-pressure water. If you have a pressure regulator, please call us for repairs. 



Faded, rusty water coming out of the tap. 


If this only happens with hot water running, see the Water Heater section for flushing the unit. If it comes from hot and cold pipelines, there may be corrosion or rust in the pipeline that the contractor will need to correct.  


The wall-furnace pilot does not light up. 


Local utility companies can offer this service for free. Please contact them for help and ask if they can turn your pilot back on. If not, please contact our customer service.  


The fan cannot be switched off. 



Check that the thermostat is not set on the “fan.” Some furnaces have a summer switch on the side of the stove. In summer, it is mainly used for air circulation throughout the home. Turn the switch to “OFF” to stop the fan function. 



The heater cannot be switched on. 


This usually indicates that the device is not receiving power. Most furnaces installed in the past 15 years have a switch in the front panel. The control panel must be properly aligned and fully closed to activate this switch. The switch is intended to prevent the furnace from being opened when changing the filter. If that doesn’t solve the problem, make sure the thermostat is set to the desired temperature and is automatic. Finally, check the circuit breaker or contact the gas company to check your equipment or re-illuminate the indicator light. 



The furnace on and off often. 


The filter is very important for the normal operation of the furnace. If the filter becomes clogged, the oven will stop circulating normally and cause these symptoms. All you have to do is replace the filter to save time and money! Ensure that the distance between all exhaust vents and the air intake grille is no more than 18 inches. To ensure adequate air circulation, nothing should be blocked. 


Garbage Disposal  
Food is not well chopped by the disposal, or drain has an odor. 


Fill an ice bowl half with vinegar and half with water. After the cube is frozen, put them on and switched on. Use 2-3 cubes a week for about a month. This not only makes the blade sharp; it also cleans the drainpipe at the same time! (Lemon peel can also remove odors).  
There is no sound when the switch is turned on. 



The most likely cause is that the disposal has no power. 

• Most disposal devices have a “reset” button on the bottom or side of the device that acts as a built-in circuit breaker. Press this button to reset the unit. 

• If this does not work, reset the designated circuit breaker on the control panel. 

• If the device makes a sound (i.e., buzzes) when it is turned on, it may mean the unit has power but is jammed. 

• Use an Allen key to clear the jam. This is a pentagonal L-shaped tool that can be placed at the bottom of the disposal (it costs $ 2-3 at a hardware store). With the device switched off or unplugged, insert an Allen key into the disposal device’s bottom. Move clockwise and counterclockwise to release the jammed unit. Before touching the unit, be sure to remove the plug from the socket. When you’re sure, the jam has been cleared, plug it back in, turn on the disposal, and see if it rotates. 


Garage door opener 
The door reverses when it is opened or closed in the middle. 


Remove any blockage in the hinge/spring area. When the door detects or hits an obstacle, most devices have an automatic reversal function. 

Sometimes the sensors in the door can be misaligned. If the indicator light on the sensor flashes, it means that the two sensors are out of alignment and need to be adjusted. Once aligned, the indicator lamp will stop flashing and remove any blockage. 



The door cannot be opened or closed smoothly. 


The garage door opener has a pull button on the back of the opener that must be adjusted according to the door’s weight. In winter, wooden doors can absorb moisture and make it heavier. This causes the door to work in a “twitching” motion. The tension knob is located on the back, side, or front of the opener. Usually the display will show as “increase / decrease” or “higher/lower”. Adjust this knob slightly in one direction to test the door. If that doesn’t help, turn the knob in the other direction until you’re happy with the door’s function. 
No electrical outlet or a specific light switch does not work. 


Replacing the outlet or switch is straightforward. There is no danger of turning off the power in this area. These parts are priced around $5, and your local hardware store can teach you how to replace it. 
There is no power to an outlet. First, try to reset the circuit breaker. If this doesn’t work and the bathroom or kitchen outlet is affected, the GFI / GFCI may have triggered. The GFI / GFCI reset button is usually red and labeled Test / Reset. It is located directly on the outlet cover. If the electricity comes in contact with water, GFI / GFCI circuit breakers can prevent electric shock by immediately disconnecting the electricity supply. 


Irrespective of where the outlet is located, it is possible to connect all kitchen and bathroom circuits through this socket. The builder typically installs a GFI / GFCI and then uses it to connect to other outlets. Find GFI / GFCI in these areas and press the reset button. 


The dishwasher cannot clean dishes well / soap cannot dissolve. If the water temperature is higher than 140 degrees, the soap will dissolve properly. Before starting the dishwasher, try increasing the water heater’s temperature or use the tap on the sink until the water gets hot. 
Water is sprayed or drained from the air gap. This means that the pipe between the air gap and the waste is clogged. The hose under the sink can be easily removed, and clogs can be removed. Make sure the hose is fully reconnected to prevent leakage. 
The dishwasher is leaking from the door. Liquid soapy water can leak the door. Switching to soap powder solves this problem. If you’ve used hand sanitizer, put a cup of vinegar in the dishwasher, and let it circulate. This will remove the remaining liquid soap from the system.  
The dishwasher does not drain. If the dishwasher does not drain properly, this is not necessarily a mechanical fault. 

1. There is an upturned cup at the bottom of the dishwasher. This is a float or pressure switch. Try to move it gently. It should move up and down freely. If there are large food particles, glass etc. under this switch, please remove them for the unit to operate normally. 

2. If the float switch is working normally, the air gap may be blocked. There may be blockage in the pipeline or the air gap. Remove the cover that exposes the air gap on the sink. If you see any obstacles (such as leftover food, etc.), remove them. If the obstruction is not visible, the top of the air gap should burst or loosen. Erase it to see if you can see other blockage. If the obstruction is in the pipeline, it should be pressurized from the air gap opening. Make sure to put your hands on the mug to prevent the water pressure from pushing it into place. When water flows through the air gap, turn off the dishwasher and reassemble the air gap. 

3. If the disposal device has recently been replaced, the installer may not remove the plug on the side of the disposal device connected to the drain hose to prevent the device from draining. The connector usually requires special tools and is difficult to remove. To avoid damage to the device, please contact the installer directly to remove the plug. 

Cooktop/Oven Range 
The oven cannot be opened (locked) 

The self-cleaning function cannot be activated. 


Reset the self-cleaning knob to the closed position and carefully open the locking mechanism. 

If you have not used the automatic cleaning function and are unsure how the device works, ask the manufacturer for an instruction manual. Check the automatic cleaning setting on the platter. Make sure the door lock is closed. 


When the oven is on, the right rear burner heats up. 


The furnace ventilation opening is in the right rear burner area. This area can get hot when the oven or machine is used for self-cleaning. 


The oven does not turn on at all. 


For electric ovens: try to reset the indicated circuit breaker in the control panel. If that doesn’t help, check the dial, it may be “timed bake.” The oven cannot be switched on without programming the time in the appliance. Set the time or reset the oven to bake or roast. 


The oven cannot be heated to the required temperature. 


Most likely, the calibration on the thermostat needs to be adjusted. Often, depending on the type of equipment, the manufacturer can assist with recalibration over the phone. 


The electric burner does not start, or the heating is uneven. 


Insert the burner coil properly 


The gas burner on the cooktop heats up unevenly. 


Clean the holes in the burner with a toothpick, toothbrush, or pipe cleaner. This increases the airflow and ensures an even flame. 

Chapter Six


Indirect vent (direct-vented): refers to a furnace or a combustion heater with a ventilation system associated with both the combustion air supply that the evacuation of products combustion is sheathed directly to the outside in independent ducts, completely closed and directly connected to the appliance. 

Mechanical ventilation (mechanically vented): refers to a furnace or water heater combustion engine with an associated ventilation system whose combustion products are completely evacuated outside by a mechanical device such as a fan, blowing or extracting, upstream or downstream of the combustion zone of the appliance and through independent ducts completely closed and directly connected to the appliance. 

Access to exit: part of a means of escape located in a floor area and providing access to an exit serving this floor area. 

Adhesion due to frost (Adfreezing): adhesion of the soil to a foundation element caused by the water’s freezing in the soil. 

Building area: the greatest horizontal surface of the building above the average level of ground within the outside faces of the exterior walls or from the outer surface of exterior walls and the shaft walls firewall. 

Floor area: Any floor of a building, space defined by the exterior walls and firewalls and including the space occupied by the interior walls and partitions, but not the exits and empty vertical techniques or constructions enclose them. 

Connecting areas: Interconnected floor space of floor areas or parts of superimposed floor areas forming fire separations and having openings without a closing device. 

Appliance: Equipment that transforms fuel into energy and includes all the components, controls, wiring, and piping required as an integral part of the equipment by the applicable standard to which the CNB refers. 

Smoke alarm: Smoke detector with built-ring, designed to give the alarm upon detection of smoke in the room or the sequence in which it is installed. 

Unprotected opening: A radiation front door, window, or other openings not provided with a sealing device having the degree flame required, or any part of a wall constituting front radiation and whose degree of fire resistance is lower than that required for such a facade. 

Building: any construction used or intended to house or receive people, animals, or things. 

Bushel (chimney liner): element used to line a masonry or concrete chimney internally. 

Nozzle (flue collar): part of a combustion appliance that receives the connection pipe or the flue collector. 

Boiler: device other than a water heater equipped with a direct energy source to heat a liquid or transform it into vapor. 

Water heater (service water heater): a device used to produce hot water for sanitary installation. 

Heated water tank (storage-standard service water heater) water heater having an embedded hot water tank. 

Water Heater indirect heating (indirect service water heater) water heater takes the heat to a heating fluid such as hot air, steam, or hot water. 

Chimney (chimney): vertical duct, containing at least one flue, intended to evacuate the combustion gases to the outside. 

Masonry or concrete chimney (masonry or concrete chimney): chimney of brick, stone, concrete, or masonry elements, built on-site. 

Prefabricated chimney (factory-built chimney): entirely made fireplace prefabricated parts assembled directly on the site. 

Fire damper (fire stop flap) device located in a wall of the false ceiling to which a degree of fire resistance is required for closing, in case of fire, a mouth of an air duct. 

Smoke collector (breeching): connecting pipe or chamber, which receives the combustion gases from one or more flues and conveys them in a single flue. 

Attic or roof (or roof attic space): Part of a building limited by the top floor ceiling and roof or a bottom wall and a sloping roof. 

Fire compartment (compartment fire) space isolated from the rest of the building by fire separations having the required degree of resistance to fire. 

Distribution duct (supply duct): duct conveying the air from a heating, ventilation, or air conditioning device to the place to be heated, ventilated, or conditioned. 

Flue pipe (flue): sheath used to convey the combustion gases. 

Connecting conduit (wind connector) (heating or cooling): part of a ventilation system which conveys the products of combustion from the nozzle of a gas appliance to the chimney or evacuation duct for the products of gas combustion; it may include a device for adjusting the draft. 

Return duct (return duct) leads conveying the air from a heated room, ventilated or air-conditioned to the heating device, ventilation, or air conditioning. 

Gas combustion products evacuation duct (gas vent): part of a ventilation system that serves to evacuate the combustion gases to the outside. 

Extraction conduit (exhaust duct) conduit for extracting air from a room or a local outwardly. 

Combustible construction (combustible construction) type, which does not meet the requirements set for non-combustible construction. 

Stove (range): household appliance made up of a hob and at least one oven intended to cook food. 

Heat detector: Fire detector adapted to trigger temperature or a predetermined rate of increase of temperature. 

Smoke detector: fire detector designed to activate when the concentration of combustion products in the air exceeds a predetermined level. 

Fire detector (fire detector): A device that detects a fire and automatically transmits an electrical signal which triggers an alarm signal or an alarm signal. The term includes heat detectors and smoke detectors. 

Closing device (closure): any part of a fire separation or an outer wall for closing an opening, as a shutter, a door, reinforced glass or glass bricks, comprising the fittings, the closing mechanism, the frame, and the anchoring parts. 

Effect of frost (frost share): a phenomenon that increases the total volume of soil or lack of space, the development of expansive forces in the ground, or a combination of these two effects because of the change of water from liquid-solid. In the event of a thaw, the effect results in the weakening of the soil’s resistance and the increase of its compressibility. 

Foundation element (Foundation unit) element that supports loads of a building. 

Air-conditioned space: any space inside a building where it is sought to limit the influence of variations in the outside temperature on the ambient temperature by a direct or indirect supply of heat or cooling for a large part of the year. 

Floor (Storey): part of a building bounded by the upper face of a floor and that of the floor immediately above or, in its absence, by the ceiling above. 

Exit floor (exit storey) stage having an exit door giving onto the outside. 

Open floor (open-air storey): stage of which at least 25% of the total area of the periphery of walls is open to the open air to provide cross-ventilation of the entire floor. 

Excavation: Cavity formed by removing soil, rock, or fill for construction. 

Radiation facade: Part of an outer wall of a building bounded by the level of the floor and ceiling of the last floor and oriented in a given direction, or when the building is divided into compartments fireproof, the outer wall of a fire-resistant compartment facing in a given direction. 

Foundation: a set of foundation elements that transmit a building’s loads to the ground on which it rests. 

Deep foundation: All foundation members transfer the loads to the ground, either by immobilization in abutting their end at a considerable depth, either by adhesion or friction in the soil where they are placed the combination of these two modes of charge transmission. Piles are the most common type of deep foundation. 

Shallow foundation: A foundation element located near the lowest part of the building. 

Repair garage: building, or part of a building, comprising installations for the repair or maintenance of motor vehicles. 

Parking garage (Garage storage) building or building part, parking and storage of motor vehicles, and no repair installation or maintenance of the vehicles in question. 

Guard: protective barrier placed around openings in a floor or on the open sides of a staircase, a landing, a balcony, a mezzanine, a gallery, or an elevated pedestrian crossing or any other place to prevent an accidental fall into the void. The guardrail may or may not have openings. 

Hot air generator (furnace): heat generator in which air constitutes the heat transfer fluid and to which ducts can generally be connected. 

Heat generator (space-heating appliance): a device intended either to directly heat a room or a place such as a stove, an open fire, or a suspended heat generator or to heat the rooms or premises of a building utilizing a central heating installation, such as a hot air generator or a boiler. 

Suspended heat generator (unit heater): suspended heater with incorporated fan. 

Generator-blower of hot air (forced-air furnace) furnace with a fan constitutes the principal means of air circulation. 

Residential occupancy: building, or part of a building, where people can sleep, without being accommodated or interned there to receive medical care, or without being detained there. 

Building height: Number of stages between the floor of the first floor and roof. 

Plumbing installation: Drainage network, ventilation network, water supply network, or any part thereof. 

Private sewage disposal system: Purification of the private facility and sewage disposal (e.g., septic tanks with leach field). 

Liquid fuel (liquid fuel): Liquid having a flashpoint of at least 37.8 ° C but lower than 93.3 ° C. A liquid’s flashpoint is the lowest temperature at which that liquid gives off enough vapor to ignite (start to burn). 

Technical room: Room designed to contain technical equipment or building maintenance. 

Dwelling unit: suite serving or intended to serve as a home for one or more people, which generally includes sanitary facilities and facilities for preparing and consuming meals and sleeping. 

Mezzanine (mezzanine): level between the floor and the ceiling of any room or floor or interior balcony. 

Firewall: a type of non-combustible construction separation that divides a building or separates adjacent buildings to prevent the spread of fire, and that offers the degree of fire resistance while maintaining its structural stability when exposed to fire for the time corresponding to its duration of fire resistance. 

Stove (space heater) furnace that heats the room or the room where it is located without ducts. 

Flashpoint: Minimum temperature at which a liquid in a container gives off vapor in sufficient concentration to form, near its surface, an ignitable mixture with air. 

Thermal bridge: Heat-conducting member, which reduces the total thermal resistance of a wall or component of the building envelope. 

A fire damper (fire damper): Obturating device consisting of normally kept open register is placed in an air distribution system or a wall or floor and designed to close automatically in case of fire to ensure the fire separation’s integrity. 

Sanitary drainage system: drainage network for conveying wastewater. 

Fire separation: Construction, with or without a degree of fire resistance, delaying the spread of fire. 

Alarm signal: audio signal transmitted in one or more zones or throughout a building to warn occupants of an emergency. 

Warning signal: Beep to warn the persons designated an emergency. 

Basement: one or more floors of a building located below the first floor. 

Inflatable structure (air-supported structure): structure made up of a flexible envelope whose shape and rigidity are obtained by air pressure. 

Suite: Room made up of a single room or a group of additional rooms and occupied by a single tenant or owner. The suite includes lodgings, single rooms in motels, hotels, rooming houses and guesthouses, dormitories, single-family homes, and shops and business establishments consisting of one room or two a group of pieces. 

Bearing surface: Contact surface between the foundation element and the rock or soil it is based. 

Air sealing system (air barrier system) together forms a continuous surface and prevents air passage. 

Connection pipe (flue pipe): pipe connecting the nozzle of an appliance to the chimney. 


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